Saturday, October 17, 2015

Walloon ancestry in Wisconsin (USA)

When looking at a map of Northeastern Wisconsin, a few village names could sound familiar to most Belgians, like Brussels, Namur, Champion, Pepin, Rosiere... In the counties of Kewaunee, Door and Brown (Green Bay), there are still a few who carry the language and traditions of their Walloon ancestors. As promised earlier, let's talk about the Walloon community in the United States.

In 1852, many Walloons started emigrating on boats from Belgium because they weren't happy about the monarchy and were hoping for a better life. Yet, the timing was bad because the American civil war started a few years later and Walloons, who often couldn't even speak English, were enrolled as soldiers in the war. Other unfortunate events, such as famine or poor climate conditions, punctuated the life of Walloons in the region. Nevertheless, these people were able to maintain cultural bond with Belgium for generations to come.

Preserving a dying culture...

Today, some elderly people still speak Walloon casually, although it is almost extinct in the region, due to centuries of forced assimilation to the English language and a general lack of interest from younger generations. As most settlers came from Hesbaye and Brabant (Gembloux, Wavre, Jodoigne, etc.), the dialect spoken is Central Walloon. After 150 years, some "walloonised" English loanwords were integrated, such as "cåler" for "to call" ("å" is pronounced "aw"), but the language has remained very pure and understandable for Walloon speakers, conserving some features such as the rolled R (unlike most Belgian Walloon pronunciations nowadays).


Every year in July, Belgian Days are celebrated in Brussels, Wisconsin (Door County). The village has the largest Belgian settlement in the United States and the Walloon heritage is probably the strongest in the county. The festival is the occasion for these people to promote traditional dishes, such as Belgian trippes, pies, broth and others. Walloon settlers are known to have brought along their Catholic Church, a sense of family and fellowship, and solid agricultural knowledge. Nonetheless, the climate and landscape were very different to those in Belgium, so that inhabitants had to cope with cold temperature and build themselves log cabins, inspired by those of local natives.

It is not unusual that people there still keep contact with their Belgian cousins and come to visit the place their ancestors came from. Some of them fight in Belgium as soldiers sent from the US during World War II (imagine the locals' surprise when they heard an American GI speak Walloon!). On July 2nd 1975, members of Belgian and American Walloon communities gathered in Green Bay to celebrate "Belgians' Day" with speeches in English, French and Walloon. In addition, a book called Les Wallons du Wisconsin recently raised the interests of Belgians and Wisconsinians. It was written by two Belgian authors (F. Lempereur and X. Istasse) who travelled to Wisconsin several years ago, documenting Walloon settlements in the region and recording their testimonies.

Monday, October 12, 2015

A "Marginal" Triangle in Flemish Brabant?

Leuven is widely known to be the main city of the Flemish Brabant province. It has a century-old university campus - perhaps it is the Belgian "Oxford"? - and many wealthy youngsters come from all over Flanders and the world to study there. Yet, an Eastern part of the same province, between Tienen, Diest and Aarschot, is colloqually named "de Marginale Driehoek" or "the Marginal Triangle" in English. A legend says that Napoleon gave the name to the region. According to it, before the Battle of Waterloo, the emperor left a number of soldiers there when they were not "capable" of doing much.

"Marginal Triangle" on a map next to Leuven


Nowadays people still associate the "triangle" with the word "marginaal", which does not translate only literally into "marginal". Rather it is used for tasteless and stupid people, who often severly lack culture, education and a job... Stereotypes depicts them as football and car "pimping" fans, who love loud techno music and showing off clothes of a famous brand (basically the equivalent of "chavs" in England).

As a result, people in Leuven and others regularly make fun of the region, being considered as low class, which is often untrue! According to statistics (source), people in the region are not necessarily less well educated or employed, but some would argue that "marginality" has more to do with culture and lifestyle than income or education...

Flemish tv-show De Ideale Wereld (VIER) has recently made fun of these people through parody videos. In one of them, the comedian Luc Haekens pretended to be a journalist broadcasting the visit of the Chinese President in Tienen. A big limo arrived on the city centre and a black guy wearing a Chinese hat and a wig was playing the Chinese President! Although this all didn't really make sense, people still acted as if it was normal!... It didn't surprise anyone either that the "Chinese President" had a perfect Flemish accent while speaking Dutch! Watch the video.

In another parody, the same comedian publically apologised to all people in Tienen about what he did last time. He used the occasion to make people claim their pride in the city of Tienen... but not in the best way! Haekens basically pushed people to say silly sentences while innocently doing strange things. A woman put her feet in a public fountain, a cyclist got filmed upside down with his bottom facing the camera, etc. Not the best way to bring some dignity back to the so-called "Marginal Triangle"! Watch the video.

Special thanks to Rien for the good idea! ;-)

Sunday, October 4, 2015

A city of lights: Coteaux and Pierreuses in Liège

Yesterday evening was the 22nd edition of Nocturne des Coteaux de la Citadelle, an annual event in Liège that started in 1994. Candles were set on different places and various events were organised to highlight a part of the city usually discrete but nonetheless amazing spots!

Most people in Liège know the city centre with Place Saint-Lambert, its station and its shops (H&M, Fnac, Inno and others). Closeby remains a more silent and old historical district, where a number of monuments and green spaces can be visited without feeling oppressed as a tourist. There are also traditional bakeries where you can find exquisite pastries and local waffles for cheap prices.

Church of Saint-Barthélemy © Phlegmish & Wallony

Gentle giant in the area, a hill overlooks the city and hosts a nice, authentic quarter, (les) Pierreuses. The place is hidden behind the city centre and is harder to access because it is on a slope. Old romantic half-timbered houses welcome the few curious passerbys. Pierreuses have their culture and their people, usually known to be more open-minded, artistic and have their sense of humour and community.



Collection of views from Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

In the middle of Pierreuses, a door gives a free of access to a local farm with kitchen gardens and cattle. It offers people with less opportunities a chance to be included in society by working there. In there, you haven't even left the big crowded city of Liège but you really ARE in the countryside!

Farm in Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

If you get to the top of the hill following the way from Pierreuses, you will arrive at (les) Coteaux (de la Citadelle), a high point offering the best of the views on the whole city. You can use that place for endless talks with loved ones under starry skies (if you have a lot of things to tell them!). When you're done, you can go back to the centre by using the so-called "mountain" of Bueren, probably one of the longest staircases in the world...

Candles on Bueren staircase © Phlegmish & Wallony

Each year, on 3rd October, this part of the "ardent city", nickname of Liège, gets lit up with over 22,000 candles. Events such as free concerts and theatrical performances are organised, drinks and food are available and the whole place looks a little more romantic. It's the time of the year where the city reveals and animates its hidden parts and some places usually closed to public provide free access to their courtyards and gardens, also full of candles. The whole events takes an end with fireworks at 11.30pm in Parc Saint-Léonard.

Liège during the event © Phlegmish & Wallony

Don't be afraid to visit the historical district of Liège at any time of the year! You can also join two upcoming events in the area: on 9th May, the Coteaux area celebrates Spring with various events including concerts, food/wine tasting and games, and on the last Sunday of June is a guided tour through hidden gardens and other places.

And if you're still going to Liège right now, have some money to spend and are not afraid of rollercoasters and cholesterol(!), you can also go to the October Funfair set for a whole month on Bouvelard d'Avroy... and ask for laquements and croustillons!