Turbulent start of winter

The start of winter was not that cold in Belgium. Actually the year 2015 saw the hottest 17 December ever recorded in Belgium with 16°C! A series of events also made Belgium a "hotspot" that got the media's attention, and it just went on and on until Christmas...

The Phantom Menace

After Paris attacks, the alert level was raised to 4 in Brussels because the Government found a potential threat. The decision was, according to a Belgian media (DH), triggered by a text message saying that a group of people was planning something in the capital very soon.

As a result of this fourth level of alert, the metro was completely blocked and schools remained closed for a few days. People were asked to avoid crowded places like shopping centres or train stations, and it was forbidden to launch any demonstration (too bad for the start of COP21 on climate change!).

#soldiers in #brussels pic.twitter.com/XGxofBdM1j

— Alain Van Kerckhoven (@bowmore64) November 26, 2015

Usually popular streets in the centre remained empty and silent, which is strange for the pre-Christmas period. A few tanks towered these streets and a lot of soldiers were charged of protecting them, making the city look like a war zone... As an anecdote, one soldier got photographied on Facebook carrying a shopping bag around a commercial area of Brussels!

Belgium got a bad reputation in France and around the world. The country was accused of not giving the appropriate check on potential fanatic killers, who later on went to France with the results that we know. A particularly bad picture was given of the commune of Molenbeek, with its important Maghrebi community. Homes of a lot of people got searched and some were arrested in the whole country.

Belgium goes meow!

The police officially asked people in Belgium not to give away any information about these raids to undermine criminal networks. The advice was followed by many, who instead of publishing serious and specific details about the raids conducted by the police, flooded social media with so-called "Lolcats" (i.e. funny pictures of cats with captions) using the #BrusselsLockDown hashtag. The national police later expressed its gratitude to the population by publishing a tweet with a (virtual) bowl of cat food! Further evidence that humour is an integral part of Belgian culture.

Forget terrorism. Go surrealism #BrusselsLockdown Video https://t.co/0NEp0NxxQz pic.twitter.com/i9FERa0HWH

— beebah (@beebah) November 26, 2015

At the same time, a French newspaper (Canard Enchainé) published a stolen photography of the Royal Couple on holiday. King Philippe and Queen Mathilde were relaxing in a spa in Brittany, France on 21st and 22nd December. The king was photographed in a bathrobe reading and drinking cocktail. The Belgian public opinion thought that it was a bit unfair for someone representing the country, but the Royal Family insured that it was a private trip that they had been planning for a long time and King Philippe was always in contact with Belgian authorities.

On 26th November, the alert level was lowered to 3 (and it is still going on), like the rest of Belgium. The metro re-opened and the threat was considered as less imminent, probably because the main fugitive had left the country, hidden in a cupboard...

It was also the start of Christmas markets in many Belgian cities. In Brussels, a light and music show lights up the the newly renovated Grand'Place. This time, a huge Christmas tree was transported from the Walloon Ardennes. In addition, a human-size crib (with real sheep!) was set up next to it. Last year a group of militants made a demonstration inside it, so this year the authorities put fences to protect it.

There are still a few days for you to visit Belgian Christmas markets. The Brussels one ends on 3rd January, like many others (Antwerp, Oostende, Mons, Durbuy...), and it finishes on 30th December in Liège and 31st December in Namur.

Merry Christmas everyone and thanks for your faithfulness in this blog!

I visited Ghent on a rainy day and I (still) liked it!

You should never draw expectation on Belgian weather... The other day, as I was walking to the train station, I realised it going to rain heavily for days. But I really wanted to visit Ghent, so here's what I saw.

Lost? Here's how to get there

From the Gent-Sint-Pieters station, take the 1-tram to Korenmarkt (the ticket machine isn't clear at all, so ask a passerby to help you!) and in about 13 minutes, you'll be in the historical centre of Ghent. If you really don't like walking in such a weather (or if your umbrella broke), you can stop earlier on the way, at the Ghent city STAM museum (Bijloke site) to see the latest big exhibition dedicated to cultural heritage.

In any case, take your train as early as possible, because a lot of cultural attractions close in the afternoon (around 5 or 6 pm)! If it says '6 pm' on the flyer, expect it to close at 5.30 already!

'Cuberdon' candy being sold on the street around Korenmarkt

Ghent is the kind of city you could equally see yourself visit, go shopping to or live in. The authenticity and cuteness of the buildings will make you (almost) forget that you're getting wet and freezing like an icecube!

Overwhelmed? Here's what you should see first

 

A highlight of your visit will be the magnificent Ghent-Terneuzen Canal, which looks very similar to the stream of little sister city Bruges. You can take a boat to visit from the stream as well and it's just a little less fairy-tale and tourist-oriented but still enjoyable.

The other must-sees are the Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) (1) built in 1180 by Phillip of Alsace, the Belfry (2), a UNESCO World Heritage, the St. Nicholas' (gothic) Church (3) from the early 13th century, and the City Hall (4), a 2010s project.

  

Ghent isn't bad at all during the day, but it will literally light up and shine (like a phoenix) in the evening! In the winter the sun goes down around 5 already but you can still go shopping and enjoy such a romantic sight. Although you are still soaking, I promise the rain will become almost invisible!

Feeling 'hip'? Have some fun

The city has a quite big shopping area around Veldstraat that includes the usual brands. You can also find a whole bunch of vintage shops or markets around the town. People in Ghent tend to like giving a new life to old stuff from their attic... Usually these shops are indoors, which is cool. Don't expect finding very cheap items though: this is still Belgium!

Ghent is also about preserving and revitalising old monuments and old walls. This can be achieved through urban art. In the centre, you will also find the quite discreet but famous Design Museum in front of the canal. Maybe you'll find interesting ideas for your home!

Perfectly integrated mural fresco

If you're bored at night, you can hang around the nice bars of the town. There is a bit of everything, so you can easily find the one that you'll like and enjoy a nice Belgian beer.

You can also find concert halls or bars in which bands play every evening. Actually some of the most popular Belgian bands, like Soulwax, Balthazar or Das Pop, come from Ghent! If you prefer jazz, the city hosts many concerts and has a jazz festival in July (more info: Gent Jazz).

Belgian beers and trolls in a bar of the centre

A last remark on accents...

Last thing, if you're learning Dutch, don't pull a face if you don't understand everything they say. A lot of people will be from West Flanders and have the strangest accent you'll find in Belgium (some people consider it as a separate language), for example they call the city "Hent". Most others will use a proper Ghent accent, which has some peculiarities partly due to a long lasting French influence on the city. So listen carefully and don't hesitate to tell them you're not a local. Most often they'll switch to English or French.