Turbulent start of winter

The start of winter was not that cold in Belgium. Actually the year 2015 saw the hottest 17 December ever recorded in Belgium with 16°C! A series of events also made Belgium a "hotspot" that got the media's attention, and it just went on and on until Christmas...

The Phantom Menace

After Paris attacks, the alert level was raised to 4 in Brussels because the Government found a potential threat. The decision was, according to a Belgian media (DH), triggered by a text message saying that a group of people was planning something in the capital very soon.

As a result of this fourth level of alert, the metro was completely blocked and schools remained closed for a few days. People were asked to avoid crowded places like shopping centres or train stations, and it was forbidden to launch any demonstration (too bad for the start of COP21 on climate change!).

#soldiers in #brussels pic.twitter.com/XGxofBdM1j

— Alain Van Kerckhoven (@bowmore64) November 26, 2015

Usually popular streets in the centre remained empty and silent, which is strange for the pre-Christmas period. A few tanks towered these streets and a lot of soldiers were charged of protecting them, making the city look like a war zone... As an anecdote, one soldier got photographied on Facebook carrying a shopping bag around a commercial area of Brussels!

Belgium got a bad reputation in France and around the world. The country was accused of not giving the appropriate check on potential fanatic killers, who later on went to France with the results that we know. A particularly bad picture was given of the commune of Molenbeek, with its important Maghrebi community. Homes of a lot of people got searched and some were arrested in the whole country.

Belgium goes meow!

The police officially asked people in Belgium not to give away any information about these raids to undermine criminal networks. The advice was followed by many, who instead of publishing serious and specific details about the raids conducted by the police, flooded social media with so-called "Lolcats" (i.e. funny pictures of cats with captions) using the #BrusselsLockDown hashtag. The national police later expressed its gratitude to the population by publishing a tweet with a (virtual) bowl of cat food! Further evidence that humour is an integral part of Belgian culture.

Forget terrorism. Go surrealism #BrusselsLockdown Video https://t.co/0NEp0NxxQz pic.twitter.com/i9FERa0HWH

— beebah (@beebah) November 26, 2015

At the same time, a French newspaper (Canard Enchainé) published a stolen photography of the Royal Couple on holiday. King Philippe and Queen Mathilde were relaxing in a spa in Brittany, France on 21st and 22nd December. The king was photographed in a bathrobe reading and drinking cocktail. The Belgian public opinion thought that it was a bit unfair for someone representing the country, but the Royal Family insured that it was a private trip that they had been planning for a long time and King Philippe was always in contact with Belgian authorities.

On 26th November, the alert level was lowered to 3 (and it is still going on), like the rest of Belgium. The metro re-opened and the threat was considered as less imminent, probably because the main fugitive had left the country, hidden in a cupboard...

It was also the start of Christmas markets in many Belgian cities. In Brussels, a light and music show lights up the the newly renovated Grand'Place. This time, a huge Christmas tree was transported from the Walloon Ardennes. In addition, a human-size crib (with real sheep!) was set up next to it. Last year a group of militants made a demonstration inside it, so this year the authorities put fences to protect it.

There are still a few days for you to visit Belgian Christmas markets. The Brussels one ends on 3rd January, like many others (Antwerp, Oostende, Mons, Durbuy...), and it finishes on 30th December in Liège and 31st December in Namur.

Merry Christmas everyone and thanks for your faithfulness in this blog!

I visited Ghent on a rainy day and I (still) liked it!

You should never draw expectation on Belgian weather... The other day, as I was walking to the train station, I realised it going to rain heavily for days. But I really wanted to visit Ghent, so here's what I saw.

Lost? Here's how to get there

From the Gent-Sint-Pieters station, take the 1-tram to Korenmarkt (the ticket machine isn't clear at all, so ask a passerby to help you!) and in about 13 minutes, you'll be in the historical centre of Ghent. If you really don't like walking in such a weather (or if your umbrella broke), you can stop earlier on the way, at the Ghent city STAM museum (Bijloke site) to see the latest big exhibition dedicated to cultural heritage.

In any case, take your train as early as possible, because a lot of cultural attractions close in the afternoon (around 5 or 6 pm)! If it says '6 pm' on the flyer, expect it to close at 5.30 already!

'Cuberdon' candy being sold on the street around Korenmarkt

Ghent is the kind of city you could equally see yourself visit, go shopping to or live in. The authenticity and cuteness of the buildings will make you (almost) forget that you're getting wet and freezing like an icecube!

Overwhelmed? Here's what you should see first

 

A highlight of your visit will be the magnificent Ghent-Terneuzen Canal, which looks very similar to the stream of little sister city Bruges. You can take a boat to visit from the stream as well and it's just a little less fairy-tale and tourist-oriented but still enjoyable.

The other must-sees are the Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) (1) built in 1180 by Phillip of Alsace, the Belfry (2), a UNESCO World Heritage, the St. Nicholas' (gothic) Church (3) from the early 13th century, and the City Hall (4), a 2010s project.

  

Ghent isn't bad at all during the day, but it will literally light up and shine (like a phoenix) in the evening! In the winter the sun goes down around 5 already but you can still go shopping and enjoy such a romantic sight. Although you are still soaking, I promise the rain will become almost invisible!

Feeling 'hip'? Have some fun

The city has a quite big shopping area around Veldstraat that includes the usual brands. You can also find a whole bunch of vintage shops or markets around the town. People in Ghent tend to like giving a new life to old stuff from their attic... Usually these shops are indoors, which is cool. Don't expect finding very cheap items though: this is still Belgium!

Ghent is also about preserving and revitalising old monuments and old walls. This can be achieved through urban art. In the centre, you will also find the quite discreet but famous Design Museum in front of the canal. Maybe you'll find interesting ideas for your home!

Perfectly integrated mural fresco

If you're bored at night, you can hang around the nice bars of the town. There is a bit of everything, so you can easily find the one that you'll like and enjoy a nice Belgian beer.

You can also find concert halls or bars in which bands play every evening. Actually some of the most popular Belgian bands, like Soulwax, Balthazar or Das Pop, come from Ghent! If you prefer jazz, the city hosts many concerts and has a jazz festival in July (more info: Gent Jazz).

Belgian beers and trolls in a bar of the centre

A last remark on accents...

Last thing, if you're learning Dutch, don't pull a face if you don't understand everything they say. A lot of people will be from West Flanders and have the strangest accent you'll find in Belgium (some people consider it as a separate language), for example they call the city "Hent". Most others will use a proper Ghent accent, which has some peculiarities partly due to a long lasting French influence on the city. So listen carefully and don't hesitate to tell them you're not a local. Most often they'll switch to English or French.

A week to discover Belgian fries!

Today was the start of the Week of Belgian Fries ("Semaine de la Frite") in Wallonia. For the fifth edition of this Walloon initiative, the goal is to highlight 150 places where you can actually eat "real" fries in the south of the country. You can find a list on their website, try them and tell us what you think!

They're worth a museum!

If you really want to know Belgian fries like the back of your hand, you can visit the only museum the world dedicated to them! The Frietmuseum is located in Bruges and can teach you a lot about Belgian fries and their history.

How can you make your own Belgian fries?

Here is an example of recipe that you could use...
1) Choose a more floury type of potato. Usually, Bintje or Nicolas potatoes are being used in Belgium.
2) If you really want to do it the traditional way, use unrefined beef fat ("Blanc de Boeuf"). But you can also use any other oil if you prefer it.
3) After washing the potatoes and peeling them, make sure you chop the potatoes in fries as thick as 1 cm (0,4 inches).
4) Don't rince them again, as it could reduce their taste considerably. Then, dry them a maximum with a towel.
5) You have to pre-cook your fries to make sure the inside of the potato is edible. The oil has to be as hot as 160°C (320°F) and it usually takes around 5 minutes. If you're not sure, you can try to break one of the fries with your fingers, if it's almost immediate, they're ready.
6) The next step is to allow them to cool down for a while (maybe half an hour).
At this step, if you feel like you have too much, you can keep them in a box in your freezer so you can cook them later!
7) Finally, cook your fries at around 170-180°C (340-355°F) to actually fry them, making them crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, and with an orange colour, around 2 or 3 minutes.
8) Put them in a bowl with a tissue and shake them up and down to make sure you get rid of a maximum of oil.

If you want to look authentic, place them in a papercone or a cardboard tray, with mayonnaise of course! Serve them hot!

Hypothetical reforms of the country

Mainstream media and Internet users like to imagine that Wallonia and Flanders will become independent from each other or join their respective neighbouring country (France or the Netherlands), but it cannot be that simple to separate two entities with such a shared centuries-long history like this. This article will focus on hypotetical reforms in Belgium on territory and powers.

Intricate combination of powers

Right now, the countries comprises the following entities:
- a Federal State
- Walloon, Flemish and Brussels Capital Regions
- Francophone (self-called "Wallonia-Brussels Federation", constitutionally "French Community"), Flemish and German-speaking Communities
- ten Provinces (Brussels being a Province-less Region although it exercises the same power as a Province)
- 43 administrative arrondissements
- many smaller Communes (municipalities)

Some explanation...

A language border was created in 1961-1963 to delimitate territories where the three national languages should be spoken. Then, the Province of Brabant got divided in a Brussels-Capital Region, a Walloon Brabant and a Flemish Brabant.

In addition, Communities were mainly created for bilingual territories like Brussels or the German-speakers who don't have a Region on their own but are included in the Walloon Region... Political parties which used to be multilingual got divided as well, so that sp.a (Flemish Socialist party) separated from PS (Francophone Socialist party) and SP (its German-speaking counterpart). At all elections (even the Federal ones), you can only vote for someone that speaks the language of your electoral district. So it isn't possible for a Walloon to vote for a Fleming and vice versa, but if you live in the Brussels-Capital Region, you can choose!

A divided power between Federal State, Communities and Regions results in the use of no less than seven Governments for such a small country! In theory, all have a Parliament, a Senate, a Government and an Administration. However, since 1980 the Flemish Community and Region have shared an Administration, a Parliament and a Senate. Communitary and regional matters are voted by Senate and Parliament from their respective point of views with a different President and approach.

Some people argue that this organisation is too complex (for more information, you can watch this YouTube video), with different powers attributed to each of these entities.


What ideas have been given yet?

Most of the following ideas of reforms come from minoritary or non-mainstream parties. Big parties seem to favour other issues than this one (economy, nature, immigration, etc.). This doesn't mean that they would necessarily like to preserve a status quo. Yet, the debate hasn't moved on much for the last decades as it implies a fundamental change in the Belgian Constitution.

A fourth Region?

The Minister-President of the Government of the German-speaking Community would like to create a four Region for his Community (with only nine Communes), which would be Province-less, a bit like Brussels-Capital. The idea is not recent and German-speakers, included in the Walloon Region, may feel as if they weren't really part of it and ProDG, an outspoken regionalist party, exists since 1971. Note that earlier Volksunie (the ancestor of N-VA, a Flemish nationalist party) proposed that these could be turned into a Province called Eupen-St-Vith but the idea didn't go further.

Official Regions following this reform.

Removing Communities and Provinces?

Two members of MR (Liberal party) and three members of PS (Socialist party) imagine getting rid of linguistic Communities or at least reducing their powers, by regionalising teaching and culture for a start. Accordingly, it could simplify Belgian institutions for citizens. Some of these politicians are heirs of the Walloon Movement that wants to promote a Walloon identity.

Following this reform, Brussels wouldn't be under both the Francophone and Flemish communities but simply a bilingual Region. It would also mean the creation of a German-speaking Region, making Belgium a four-Region country.

Moreover, some consider Provinces as outdated entities and they think administrative arrondissements should be favoured to reflect local identities better.

A bigger Brussels-Capital Region?

FDF (Francophone federalist party) argues that Belgian Francophones do share a common culture and identity. The party opposes the removal of Communities or any cut-off in their powers, saying that it could make education and job search more complicated on both sides, and further divide Francophones. The same types of argument have been put forward by other members of MR and PS, who do not necessarily agree with Walloon regionalism.

Along with UF (Union of Francophones' party in Flanders), FDF also want to encourage the privileges of Francophones living in Flanders to use their mother tongue, possibly by extending the Capital's bilingualism to these municipalities.

Back to Provinces only?

BUB (Belgian Union party) - one of the only bilingual parties left - wants to abolish Communities and Regions, and go back to a Federal State divided in Provinces, with no divide of the Brabant into three entities. This party is minoritary and those who want so-called "Daddy's Belgium" back are often seen as nostalgic fans of an outdated monarchy, which doesn't give them many votes at elections.

 What a Province-only Belgium with a unitary Brabant would look like.

Confederalism?

N-VA's (Flemish nationalist party) idea is to have a clearer separation between Wallonia and Flanders. They would like to initiate the process by making Belgium a Confederal State (instead of a Federal one), with Flanders and Wallonia owning all powers but voluntarily partnering on some issues. These years, N-VA has been very popular in Flanders and have more political weight, although it is not sure whether their electorate is precisely in favour of such a constitutional reform.

PP (Francophone liberal conservative party) also announced their intention to encourage a Confederal State, although it should comprise three or four independent Regions. The number of separate entities depends on the status of Brussels: as part of Flanders, as a separate entity or as co-managed by Wallonia and Flanders, and that of the German-speaking territories.

Only one Federal electoral district

Politicians from different parties, especially Groen! (Flemish green party), Ecolo (Francophone green party) and Open Vld (Flemish liberal party), have given the idea to reduce the number of electoral districts to one for Federal elections. This means allowing citizens to vote for anyone in the country, even if that person doesn't speak the same language. They believe it could be a good way to strengthen links between the different communities after the recent institutional reform for a regionalisation of powers. Other parties like PS have brought it up as well but no change has been operated yet...


So should we keep the same system, use one of the solutions above or find a new one? The debate is open...

Walloon ancestry in Wisconsin (USA)

When looking at a map of Northeastern Wisconsin, a few village names could sound familiar to most Belgians, like Brussels, Namur, Champion, Pepin, Rosiere... In the counties of Kewaunee, Door and Brown (Green Bay), there are still a few who carry the language and traditions of their Walloon ancestors. As promised earlier, let's talk about the Walloon community in the United States.

In 1852, many Walloons started emigrating on boats from Belgium because they weren't happy about the monarchy and were hoping for a better life. Yet, the timing was bad because the American civil war started a few years later and Walloons, who often couldn't even speak English, were enrolled as soldiers in the war. Other unfortunate events, such as famine or poor climate conditions, punctuated the life of Walloons in the region. Nevertheless, these people were able to maintain cultural bond with Belgium for generations to come.

Preserving a dying culture...

Today, some elderly people still speak Walloon casually, although it is almost extinct in the region, due to centuries of forced assimilation to the English language and a general lack of interest from younger generations. As most settlers came from Hesbaye and Brabant (Gembloux, Wavre, Jodoigne, etc.), the dialect spoken is Central Walloon. After 150 years, some "walloonised" English loanwords were integrated, such as "cåler" for "to call" ("å" is pronounced "aw"), but the language has remained very pure and understandable for Walloon speakers, conserving some features such as the rolled R (unlike most Belgian Walloon pronunciations nowadays).

Every year in July, Belgian Days are celebrated in Brussels, Wisconsin (Door County). The village has the largest Belgian settlement in the United States and the Walloon heritage is probably the strongest in the county. The festival is the occasion for these people to promote traditional dishes, such as Belgian trippes, pies, broth and others. Walloon settlers are known to have brought along their Catholic Church, a sense of family and fellowship, and solid agricultural knowledge. Nonetheless, the climate and landscape were very different to those in Belgium, so that inhabitants had to cope with cold temperature and build themselves log cabins, inspired by those of local natives.

It is not unusual that people there still keep contact with their Belgian cousins and come to visit the place their ancestors came from. Some of them fight in Belgium as soldiers sent from the US during World War II (imagine the locals' surprise when they heard an American GI speak Walloon!). On July 2nd 1975, members of Belgian and American Walloon communities gathered in Green Bay to celebrate "Belgians' Day" with speeches in English, French and Walloon. In addition, a book called Les Wallons du Wisconsin recently raised the interests of Belgians and Wisconsinians. It was written by two Belgian authors (F. Lempereur and X. Istasse) who travelled to Wisconsin several years ago, documenting Walloon settlements in the region and recording their testimonies.

A "Marginal" Triangle in Flemish Brabant?

Leuven is widely known to be the main city of the Flemish Brabant province. It has a century-old university campus - perhaps it is the Belgian "Oxford"? - and many wealthy youngsters come from all over Flanders and the world to study there. Yet, an Eastern part of the same province, between Tienen, Diest and Aarschot, is colloqually named "de Marginale Driehoek" or "the Marginal Triangle" in English. A legend says that Napoleon gave the name to the region. According to it, before the Battle of Waterloo, the emperor left a number of soldiers there when they were not "capable" of doing much.

"Marginal Triangle" on a map next to Leuven

Nowadays people still associate the "triangle" with the word "marginaal", which does not translate only literally into "marginal". Rather it is used for tasteless and stupid people, who often severly lack culture, education and a job... Stereotypes depicts them as football and car "pimping" fans, who love loud techno music and showing off clothes of a famous brand (basically the equivalent of "chavs" in England).

As a result, people in Leuven and others regularly make fun of the region, being considered as low class, which is often untrue! According to statistics (source), people in the region are not necessarily less well educated or employed, but some would argue that "marginality" has more to do with culture and lifestyle than income or education...

Flemish tv-show De Ideale Wereld (VIER) has recently made fun of these people through parody videos. In one of them, the comedian Luc Haekens pretended to be a journalist broadcasting the visit of the Chinese President in Tienen. A big limo arrived on the city centre and a black guy wearing a Chinese hat and a wig was playing the Chinese President! Although this all didn't really make sense, people still acted as if it was normal!... It didn't surprise anyone either that the "Chinese President" had a perfect Flemish accent while speaking Dutch! Watch the video.

In another parody, the same comedian publically apologised to all people in Tienen about what he did last time. He used the occasion to make people claim their pride in the city of Tienen... but not in the best way! Haekens basically pushed people to say silly sentences while innocently doing strange things. A woman put her feet in a public fountain, a cyclist got filmed upside down with his bottom facing the camera, etc. Not the best way to bring some dignity back to the so-called "Marginal Triangle"! Watch the video.

Special thanks to Rien for the good idea! ;-)

A city of lights: Coteaux and Pierreuses in Liège

Yesterday evening was the 22nd edition of Nocturne des Coteaux de la Citadelle, an annual event in Liège that started in 1994. Candles were set on different places and various events were organised to highlight a part of the city usually discrete but nonetheless amazing spots!

Most people in Liège know the city centre with Place Saint-Lambert, its station and its shops (H&M, Fnac, Inno and others). Closeby remains a more silent and old historical district, where a number of monuments and green spaces can be visited without feeling oppressed as a tourist. There are also traditional bakeries where you can find exquisite pastries and local waffles for cheap prices.

Church of Saint-Barthélemy © Phlegmish & Wallony

Gentle giant in the area, a hill overlooks the city and hosts a nice, authentic quarter, (les) Pierreuses. The place is hidden behind the city centre and is harder to access because it is on a slope. Old romantic half-timbered houses welcome the few curious passerbys. Pierreuses have their culture and their people, usually known to be more open-minded, artistic and have their sense of humour and community.

Collection of views from Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

In the middle of Pierreuses, a door gives a free of access to a local farm with kitchen gardens and cattle. It offers people with less opportunities a chance to be included in society by working there. In there, you haven't even left the big crowded city of Liège but you really ARE in the countryside!

Farm in Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

If you get to the top of the hill following the way from Pierreuses, you will arrive at (les) Coteaux (de la Citadelle), a high point offering the best of the views on the whole city. You can use that place for endless talks with loved ones under starry skies (if you have a lot of things to tell them!). When you're done, you can go back to the centre by using the so-called "mountain" of Bueren, probably one of the longest staircases in the world...

Candles on Bueren staircase © Phlegmish & Wallony

Each year, on 3rd October, this part of the "ardent city", nickname of Liège, gets lit up with over 22,000 candles. Events such as free concerts and theatrical performances are organised, drinks and food are available and the whole place looks a little more romantic. It's the time of the year where the city reveals and animates its hidden parts and some places usually closed to public provide free access to their courtyards and gardens, also full of candles. The whole events takes an end with fireworks at 11.30pm in Parc Saint-Léonard.

Liège during the event © Phlegmish & Wallony

Don't be afraid to visit the historical district of Liège at any time of the year! You can also join two upcoming events in the area: on 9th May, the Coteaux area celebrates Spring with various events including concerts, food/wine tasting and games, and on the last Sunday of June is a guided tour through hidden gardens and other places.

And if you're still going to Liège right now, have some money to spend and are not afraid of rollercoasters and cholesterol(!), you can also go to the October Funfair set for a whole month on Bouvelard d'Avroy... and ask for laquements and croustillons!

English rap in Flanders: Woodie Smalls and Coely

Hiphop and rap music has become a blooming genre nowadays, being performed all over the world and representing various communities, and in a previous article, we focused on Flemish rap and so-called "Nederhop". Two (young!) artists recently attracted my attention. Why? Because they were using American English and weren't even born in the US but in Flanders!


Woodie Smalls, whose real name is Sylvestre Saluma, was born in Sint-Niklaas in 1996. He started rapping in his early teenage and released his first song "Champion Sound" this year (he is now 18!), coming together with an EP called "Soft Parade", with the help of Dutch producer Thovobeats.

The video features him in a typically Flemish village (I assume) in the company of his cousin and friends. Flemish radios such as Studio Brussel (mostly indie music), MNM and JimTV directly broadcasted it. It also reached listeners in the Netherlands, France and Australia.

His lyrics are in English and with a "Black American" accent but his rap is about his life here in Belgium, a whole different lifestyle, far away from the usual "gangsta, diamond rings and bitches" type. He also chose humour for the title of his second track "About The Dutch".

But wait... Woods was not the first Flemish rapper to use English. Three years ago, Belgium discovered Coely! Born in 1994 in Antwerp, Coely Mbueno recorded her first track "Ain't Chasing Pavements" with independent record label Beatville (2012). She came by as a relevant ambassador of female rap, but she also proved that she could sing. National radios embraced her performance and Studio Brussel even elected her as their "Hotshot".



Her first EP "RAAH The Soulful Yeah" also includes the singles "Nothing On Me" and "All I Do". She changed her looks for something more androgynous and revealed a more feministic mind ("(...) the world surrounding me is mostly run by men, but we're taking over!"). She then graduated in 2013 before starting to tour in various festivals of the Benelux. Having attended one of her concerts, I found her very generous with the public and full of energy.

Too many cars in Brussels? Solutions are being found

Brussels has probably one of the densest traffic in Europe, due to its central position in the country (not only geographically) and the number of European/international organisations having their headquarters there. However, actions are taken to promote a more bike- and pedestrian-friendly lifestyle.

New Brussels Capital's logo: yellow love heart on a blue plant

Decent public transports
As it is pretty difficult to find a park place, many inhabitants and workers leave their car at home and favour the city's efficient public transport service.

Wherever you are, you can use GoogleMaps to calculate your journey using buses, trams and the metro. Note however that the website/app is not as efficient in other parts of the country, especially the Walloon region (rather check that website).

On the official app of STIB/MIVB, the regional public transports in Brussels, you can get to know (almost) exactly at which station each bus/tram/metro is, avoiding awkward situations where you find yourself waiting ages for nothing.

Bicycling in the capital
As explained in a former article, bicycles are widely used in the Northern part of the country and it is part of the more healthy and eco-friendly lifestyle.

In Wallonia, bike lanes are being built but there is still a long (bike) way to cross before it gets into the local culture, as riding my bike to work, It is often perceived as an activity for people who are "really" into sports and bikes, or for liberals/alter/hipsters...

In Brussels, the trend to use a bike to work is starting to grow, because it is such a small territory and the public transports are not that cheap. In addition, the city recently introduced a new public transport service called Villo! (a mixture of the French words for "city" and "bike"), taking the example of Vélib in France.

For little expenses, you can automatically rent a bike from a bike station for a certain amount of time. Once you've arrived to your destination, you have to find the closest station to park it. It can be found using this map. Any bike found abandoned somewhere are being checked and the person renting it is contacted by phone.

No car allowed for a day
Yesterday was the annual car-free day in Brussels. A deliciously strange feeling of freedom took over the city and almost no car could be seen in the streets, even the biggest boulevards. The only exceptions were taxis, buses and people who had a special authorisation. As a result, Brussels was full of bikes and looked like a giant playground.

Opening the boulevard
In a less temporary way, the city of Brussels recently opened an entire area in the centre to pedestrians. What used to be a large boulevard with dense traffic became a place of leisure as seats, ping-pong tables and other items are now at the disposal of everyone.

Test: How Belgian are you?

Ever wondered how Belgian you were or could be? For the Belgian National Day, I have made this silly test, which is kind of related to this blog (but hush!)... (This test is scientifically a test, no Googling, no hesitating, and note your answers on a paper.)

1. What's the national dish of Belgium?
A. chips
B. French fries
C. Belgian fries

2. What do you eat them with?
A. mayonnaise
B. ketchup
C. mustard

3. How would you qualify your mother tongue?
A. a majority language
B. a minority language
C. a minority language which is also a majority language

4. What is your favourite drink?
A. wine
B. beer
C. anything else

5. How would you qualify yourself?
A. messy
B. tidy
C. messy but full of compromises

6. How do people qualify your humour?
A. absurd and self-mocking
B. cynical and trash
C. witty and elitist

7. What is a neuske/cuberdon? (Don't Google it)
A. a type of waffle
B. a type of sweet
C. a type of nose

8. What are February and March made for?
A. Valentine's day and St Patrick's day
B. pancakes
C. Carnival

9. As a kid, which one were you waiting for?
A. Santa Claus on 25th December
B. Saint Nicholas on 6th December
C. anything else

10. What do you put in every dish (including sandwiches)?
A. rice
B. aubergine
C. fries

11. Which weather are you most used to?
A. sunny
B. snowy
C. rainy

12. When do you feel proud of your country?
A. all the time
B. never
C. when I'm abroad and/or the national sports team is winning something

13. When not to go shopping?
A. between noon and 2pm
B. late afternoon
C. before Christmas

14. If you have a bicycle, you'd better use it in:
A. the North
B. the South
C. the capital city

15. If you like kissing people to greet them, you'd better not go to:
A. the North
B. the South
C. the capital city

16. Do you know your national anthem?
A. yes, by heart
B. not really, but who cares?
C. I know the neighbour's one better


Check your answers in the comment!

Brussels' messed up identity

No language census has been made in Belgium for around a century, but it is commonly accepted that 20% of Brussels population is made of Dutch speakers and 80% of French speakers (which do not consider themselves as Walloons by the way!) and people can vote for whoever they want at the elections, Flemish or Francophones.

Yet, in 2014, more than 93% of people from Brussels registered themselves as Francophones for the fiscal year, and around the same number is found for pension requests (source: Belga).

French being a more international language due to former colonies around the world, immigration is a factor of "Frenchifying" the territory, in addition to Walloon immigration.

If you happen to live in Brussels, you will probably hear a lot more of Arabic (there is a huge community of people from Maghreb in the capital), Turkish, Spanish, Romanian... and of course English! As for Dutch speakers, they are a few here and there, who usually speak French fluently, so they probably don't think it's that much of a trouble to pick it up officially in administration...

But Brussels culture seems to be based a lot on Flemish culture. For example, last week, Ommegang, which is Dutch means "walking around", was celebrated with a parade in the centre of Brussels. It tells the story of a Virgin Mary statue carried from Antwerp to Brussels and a series of miraculous events associated to it. For the record, it is always funny to see people dressed as Middle Ages knights who have issue getting into a kebab bars with their swords after the parade!

Ommegang in Brussels, just walking around...

In Brussels, people still like to use Flemish-dialect words as a joke (zinneke, skieve, amai, etc.) but largely speak French and are used to meeting French friends (one hour and a half and you're in Paris). Recently, the commemoration of the battle of Waterloo (which is close to Brussels) was a big event largely covered on TV with reconstitutions as well.

If I could define what it means to be from Brussels (but I can't) I'd say that it is having a double culture and double roots. Brussels picked up French, the language of prestige for a few centuries, before realising that its Germanic roots were important too and that the Dutch-speaking minority should be protected.

People in Brussels know what it means to live in a multicultural and multilingual environment and they're almost blasé of it, by contrast with Walloons, who lift their eyebrows when they hear someone speak English in the street! They know what it means to be in a city by which important people pass and take decisions, and where buying a meal can be expensive. That's what makes them so special, I guess.

Free hugs, anyone?

Belgian YouTube channel Would You React decided to test Belgium by carrying out what they called a "social experiment". The question asked was whether the three Belgian regions (Wallonia, Flanders and Brussels) were different as for showing their affection in public.

They took a hidden camera and a "Free Hugs" sign and counted the number of hugs (or refusals) they received in Liège, Antwerp and Brussels. Here is what happened:

Conclusion: although Brussels and Antwerp have slightly higher scores than Liège, all three got the same kind of percentage of hugs... around 57% of passers-by are ready to give you hugs, so why not try?

Last week to visit the Royal Greenhouse!

It only opens every year for three weeks in spring, it's in the Northern part of Brussels (Laeken) and... it's almost over! Nice and cheap activity, but pick the most suitable time for it.

There are four days left (5th, 6th, 7th and 8th May) on which you can visit the Royal Greenhouse of Laeken from 9:30am to 4:00pm. On the last day, it also opens from 8pm to 10pm. It is pretty cheap: only €2.50 per person; it's even free if you're younger than 18.

Situated next to the Royal Castle of Laeken (pronounced "Lah-kun") and some other architectural monuments like the Japanese Tower, this huge heaven on earth is located in Avenue du Parc Royal, 1020 Bruxelles, so it takes around 35-40 min from Central Station with buses and trams (and a bit less from North Station). Follow the signs and find the big fence where the entrance is. You really ought to come by during the week and/or early in the morning, because you may have to queue for a long time at the entrance otherwise.

The place has a collection of plants from different countries under Leopold II (1835-1909) as sorts of keepsakes from our colonial past. The few beautiful greenhouses are surrounded by vast gardens with ponds and some Asian trees. You may just picture yourself as a little prince(ss) playing around in the area and having a daydream and you completely forget that you're in Brussels.

The smell of flowers surrounds you everywhere (if you are allergic, take your medicine!)... You will admire the magnificent structure of the different greenhouses from a different century, as well as the different shapes of the royal plants, which come from the Philippines, India, Australia, and other remote places, and vary from incredibly esthetic to really quirky, animal-like or carnivore. Some are rarity and may not be found anywhere else than there!

Cameras are authorised, so take your best one. But also take your time to enjoy everything with your own eyes! I would say that it is good for any age, so bringing your kids with you is a good idea (but tell them that touching the plants is forbidden!).

In a strange hobbit-like house, you can see former Belgian queen Elizabeth's sculpture workshop. And next to the greenhouse's exit door, you can eat a "couque/koek" (Belgian word for a brioche-like cake) and drink some coffee in an actual greenhouse (without the plants though) with a splendid view on the garden.

If I could point out one negative side of the activity, I'd say that, because the greenhouse is only available for such a short period every year, it becomes full of people. You can't really walk around freely from a greenhouse to another and you have to follow the crowd if you don't want to lose your friends and/or family. Sometimes you have to wait 10 minutes before being able to get into the next greenhouse because some are not that big.

Wildlife in the city

Although quite populated, Belgium is also a natural area with wild animals. Foxes, weasels, rabbits, boars and others can be observed all over the country, especially in the Ardennes, but they can even be found in big cities like Brussels.

A census

In order to know which species going well, which ones need protection and which ones are dangerous or too invasive, a new census is organised by Natagora, Natuurpunt and Bruxelles Environnement. The idea is for locals to indicate when and where they see a wild mammal in Brussels. On their website, participants are invited to add pictures and data of what they observe on an atlas of the city. It is very useful information because the last census was 15 years ago and animal populations keep moving and changing in size.

Fluffy opportunist 

Red foxes can be found in the whole of Belgium, but they have become very common in Brussels, not only in the green areas like the Soigne forest, but also in the city center. It is actually a recent phenomenon because it wasn't the case 30 years ago. Fox families have come from Flemish rural zones and adapted to their new, urban environment. Some people might find them annoying because of their mating calls, which sound like a woman screaming (which is quite scary for such cute animals), usually heard in February, or because they may dig holes (earths) in people's gardens.

Nevertheless, be reassured, Belgian foxes are not dangerous at all. They don't fight with cats or dogs (they do hunt rats and mice though) and they never attack humans, being quite shy animals. More importantly, rabies is totally eradicated among foxes in Belgium, so there shouldn't be any risk. If you see them, be silent if you want to observe these beautiful animals, but never feed them as it could make them become lazy and invasive.

They're coming back!

Another animal was dealt with a lot in press recently, the wolf. After more than a century (when the last specimen was killed in Virton), populations of wolves are coming back to Belgium. It is not yet the case but it will happen, because some have been observed in recent years in the bordering countries (France, the Netherlands and Germany). This video showing was filmed in a Dutch city not far from Belgium:

Running fast, wolves can walk for around 200 km a day so it can't be difficult for them to cross the borders. Normally, they should greatly favour South-Eastern zones of the country, like the High Fens, less populated and covered with forests. Anyway, don't be scared, because wolves are scared of human beings!

The capital of rabbits and parrots

The city of Brussels is also a place for strange groupings of animals. If you take a walk in the city for a while, you will probably come across flocks of rabbits, for example around Brussels No(o)rd station. You might also hear high-pitched noises made by one of the 10 000 (or more) rose-ringed parrots (more specifically "parakeets"), exotic birds from tropical regions of Africa and Asia, who have settled in the capital, giving it a Latin feeling. This species is pretty rare in Walloon cities and I have no idea how they arrived there.

Don't mess up with these...

Wild boars aren't rare in Belgium although more discrete and for some people they are scary and/or annoying. These nervous swines are known for destroying people's garden and being a little agressive. I have personally never seen any in the wild, but two hikers got the fright of their life in a Belgian village and their video got viral:

Note that the ponies are not really chasing the wild boar out to save the hikers, but rather running around it as a game, probably...

Listen to Belgian accents and dialects!

"Nonante", "septante"... these are some famous Belgicisms that foreigners learn when they visit the country to speak French. But the difference is also in the accent, or the accents even, because depending on the region you come from, you might get one of the specific local accents. Check out a recent YouTube video to listen to samples of people speaking French in various Belgian accents. Another video will show you the variety of local dialects and languages of Wallonia!

Ten examples of Belgian accents in French

1) Flemish accent (okay the speaker's accent is very slight!)
2) Brussels accent (actually an exagerated drunk version of it!)
3) Brussels-Walloon accent, a sort of "norm" in Francophone Belgium
4) Belgian Picard accent (similar to a Northern French accent)
5) Charleroi accent
6) Namur accent
7) Liège accent (very particular tone)
8) Verviers accent (the one where nasal vowels are not nasal, actually this accent is also heard in Liège)
9) Belgian German-speaker accent

This list is non-exhaustive, because there are as many accents and gradations of them as there are cities and social classes in Belgium (e.g. there is a posh Brussels-Brabant accent!).

Ten languages/dialects spoken in the Walloon region

 

Romance languages:

1) Eastern Walloon dialect (Liège)

2) Central Walloon dialect (Namur)

3) Walloon-Picard (West): a transition with the neighbouring Picard dialects
4) Walloon-Lorrain (South): also a transition, but with Lorrain this time
5) Lorrain (Gaume): this Lorrain dialect is spoken in the extreme South of Belgium
6) Picard: very similar to Picard or Ch'ti spoken in France
7) Champenois: a very small area in the South-West speaks a dialect similar to that in Champagne

Germanic languages:
1) Moselle Franconian (or Luxembourgish)
2) Ripuarian (similar to what is spoken in Cologne)
3) Platdiets or Limburgish-Ripuarian (a dialect with mixed German-Dutch influences)

Overweight and unhealthy Belgians?

The results of a study show Belgians have the third unhealthiest eating habits in the world... It is not surprising in a country where waffles and chocolate are national prides, but one shouldn't see these results as a representation of what Belgium is globally (hopefully!). Let's see why.
 
A recent survey directed by Dr Fumiaki Imamura, from Cambridge University, and published in newspaper Lancet Global Health scrutinised eating habits of some 187 countries in the world between years 1990 and 2010. Sadly, Belgium appears to be the third country in the top which has the most unhealthiest eating habits in the world, according to this survey. It comes right after Armenia and Hungary, where the habits are apparently the worst ones, and are followed by Czech Republic, Kazakhstan, Belarus and the rest of them, way ahead of the USA!... It is very strange for us to realise it, because we always picture Americans as being overweight with very relaxed views on what they eat.

Well, on the other hand, Belgium also has as national dishes chocolate, waffles, fries (including fries sandwiches!) and a number of sauces to go with it, and as national drink... beer of course! These are not examples of healthy eating habits, but most countries also have their own high-calorie meals (sausages, haggis, Leberkäse, kebab, etc.) and it didn't change their position in the top.

Although the country has the lowest proportion of McDonald's per inhabitant, Belgium has a lot of fast-food restaurants available... And that's because, well, we have our own fast-food chain, Quick, which has later been redeemed by a French company but is still the leader in Belgium. And in general, people have globally embraced unhealthy eating habits as part of their culture. Frituur/friture places, which are small houses or caravans that sell fries and some other greasy meals, have always been all over the country, although kebab restaurants tend to be in competition with them.

Comparatively, two other studies by the ISP (Belgian public health institute) suggested that Belgians didn't take enough care of their health. One stated that only 12% of the population claimed they ate five fruits and vegetables per day. Another one said the general Belgian BMI (Body Mass Index) was around 25.4, which is considered overweight! Ouch...

Yet, the Cambridge University's study also indicates that, in general, people in the world (including Belgians) tend to eat more fruits and vegetables, so that also healthy eating habits increase in parallel. It was not until a few years ago that organic food shops have popped up in different cities. Their disadvantage is the higher price, of course, but this business seems to be popular among a certain type of people. In my opinion, women, university students (interested in sustainable and ecological development) and richer families are more often into these things. The survey indeed pointed out that, in general, youngsters and men tend to eat less healthy.


Another trendy business these days consists in slow-food restaurants, i.e. restaurants that serve better quality burger and fries for a bit more money, and I have seen them in different Belgian cities (it isn't difficult to find one close to your location in Brussels for instance: Houtsiplout, Balmoral, Manhattn's, etc.).

Similarly, a recent Flemish Internet fad called Dagen Zonder Vlees consists in getting vegetarian for fourty days. It comes as a Facebook challenge, mirroring the centuries-long tradition of Lent fasting (occurring around the same period) in a non-religious way, just like one would get a stach for the whole of "Movember"!

All in all, Belgium has a tradition of calor(if)ic food eating and it is only slowly changing, but flourishing businesses like organic food shops or slow-food restaurants (as well as efforts made by politics to fight against unhealthy food at school) could also change the face of Belgians, and probably one day the cliché of Belgians being fat waffle eaters...

Original and funny: Carnival experience in Belgium

In February and March, dozens of coloured and creative Carnival parades flourish over the whole of Belgium. A lot of them ended a few days ago (on Mardi Gras) and, as usual, have attracted many visitors. Why? Because each of them has its own traditions and stories, and they can provide you with a nice experience of what Belgium is in terms of fun and sincerity. Lots of them were invented centuries ago to celebrate the end of winter, ward off evil spirits and wish everyone good luck for the new harvest. Globally, Carnival is the occasion to exchange roles in society, wear disguises and do pranks to others... a great way to release pressure!


Probably the most famous Carnival in Belgium takes place in Binche (Hainaut province). It is easily recognizable from its main characters, the "Gilles", a tradition recognized by UNESCO for 10 years. Wearing fake fat bellies and ostrich feather hats, they have this very "Belgian" look from their mask, which used to be a symbol of rebellion against the Napoleonian regime. Participants are usually very proud of representing their city. The Gilles also play in brass bands and throw blood oranges to people down the street. The parade also includes a variety of other characters, usually played by local kids (Arlequin, Peasant, Pierrot...).

Gilles wearing masks or ostrich hats

Carnival in Aalst (East Flanders) is a tradition (also recognized by UNESCO) that started in the Middle Ages. Typically it involves "onion throwing" to passers-by and a "Dirty Sissies" parade... Actually, onion-sized candies have replaced onions, to the joy of children!... And the "Dirty Sissies" are not the new trendy punk band in Belgium, but a traditional parade. Because poor people couldn't afford fancy clothes, they decided to make fun of rich ladies by making men wear some ugly, broken or old clothes and accessories (fur coat, broken umbrella, etc.) often borrowed from their own wives!

Parade in Aalst and men in lady's clothes

A very "Walloon" Carnival is the Cwarmê in Malmedy (Liège province, bordering Germany). It is in this Carnival that Walloon language can be heard spoken ritually at ceremonies or by local characters, including "li Haguète", a sort of witch that plays tricks to people, represents winter and is judged at the end of Carnival. Also a variety of characters play jokes in Walloon with passers-by, like the "baker", who uses his/her giant spatula to hit people's butts!

Disguised crowd at the Carnival parade in Malmedy

A last example is the Carnival in Martelange (Luxembourg province), called "Cavalcade". This year, it was the only cross-border Carnival made in Belgium, because it partnered with the Luxembourg village of Rambrouch. Belgian people in the area feel very close to Luxembourg, also because one street is included in both countries.


Traditionally, most of these parades have a "Prince Carnival" who announces the end of Carnival, which also means the start of Spring. To symbolise the (temporary) death of winter, a giant puppet (stuffed with straw) is burned on a public square and the big fire warms up all attendees. Other examples of Carnival in Belgium are: the Laetare in Stavelot (Liège province), "Schnarnaval" in Schaerbeek (Brussels region) and Rosenmontag in Eupen (German-speaking community)... Each time a different experience!

Why place names are so confusing in Belgium

Have you ever experienced the feeling of being lost in translation with signs on the highway written in different languages? If you visit Belgium by car, it might happen a lot, because depending on where you are driving in the country, the signs can be in Dutch and French (sometimes in German as well). The problem is that cities names are also translated and can REALLY confuse foreigners! A little guide to help you cope with it...

If you happen to visit the Brussels region, you will notice that every commune and street name is bilingual Dutch-French. Due to the Flemish origin of most of the place names, a peculiar phenomenon occurs with French versions of these names. A lot of them are written with strange combinations of letters that are not part of French spelling and you often have to ask locals how to pronounce them. For example, the commune name "Schaerbeek" is pronounced in French as if it was written "Scarbéque". And... this spelling is not even the same in Dutch, "Schaarbeek"! Why then?
 
The reason of this is the fact that an Flemish dialects used to be spelled in a different way in the old times, sometimes with rules that were not really fixed, so that one sound could be written in different ways. In Modern Dutch language, these place names were progressively changed to correspond to the spelling standards, but French speakers didn't really care about the new spelling and they kept it with the older one. Yet, you will still find the same spelling in Flemish family names, but it matters less...

If you know how to pronounce Dutch, you can quickly learn the following changes occurring in the spelling and you'll know how to pronounce the names of the city in French... oh wait, take a French accent of course(!):
- ae = aa /a:/ (a long "ah")
- au = ou /ɑu/ (normally English "ow" but French speakers say "oh")
- uy = ui /œi/ (more or less "uh-ee")
- ue = uu /y:/ (long French "u")
- ey = ei /ɛi/ (English "ay")
- y or ÿ = ij /ɛi/ (normally also English "ay" but French speakers say "ee")
- gh = g /x/ (normally like the Scottish pronunciation of ch in "loch" but French speakers say "g")
- sch = sch /sx/ (in French, just say "sk") or s /s/ (in word final)
 - c, ck = k or kk /k/


So, now you can read French versions of city names in Brussels, but also in the whole of Belgium:
Coxyde (Koksijde), Welkenraedt (Welkenraad), Crainhem (Kraainem), Knocke (Knokke), Blanckenberghe (Blankenberge), Auderghem (Oudergem), Schaerbeek (Schaarbeek)...

Unfortunately, it is not always that easy to understand that a city name means another one, especially if you compare what you see on your map or GPS and what you read on the signs! For some reason, you can find city names that are super different from their translation in French or Dutch. In some places, Flemish independentists have sprayed paint on street signs to hide the French names and only have Dutch names displayed...

Here is a selection of the biggest dissimilarities between French and Dutch names of the same city: Mons - Bergen*, Braine-l'Alleud - Eigenbrakel, Braine-le-Comte - s'-Gravenbrakel, Soignies - Zinnik, Tournai - Doornik, Ixelles - Elsene, Amblève - Amel, Tirlemont - Tienen, Fourons - Voeren, Anvers - Antwerpen, Termonde - Dendermonde, Courtrai - Kortrijk, Namur - Namen, Bouillon - Boolen... Feeling dizzy, huh?

* The meaning of the city name in both languages is in fact "mountains"

As you probably know it, Belgium also has a German-speaking community, so that there are also cities with names in German. Fortunately, the German name is usually super similar to the Dutch one (add umlauts here and there and you get them). That way, some Belgian cities have distinct translations in the three national languages: Bruxelles - Brüssel - Brussel, Liège - Lüttich - Luik, Arlon - Arel - Aarlen, Louvain - Löwen - Leuven, Malines - Mecheln - Mecheln...

Interesting article? Leave a comment!

8 quirky places to visit in Belgium

Belgium is not just about Manneken Pis, the sculpture of a tiny boy having a pee in Brussels. There is so much more to see in this country, like the city of Bruges, which was described in the previous article. Here is a list of ancient or modern, quirky and amazing places in Belgium, including ones not all Belgians have ever heard of...

Bluebells forest - Halle, Flemish Brabant

The forest Hallerbos is probably one of the most mysterious ones in appearance. It is covered with a natural purple carpet made of bluebells, giving it a magical look. If you want to have a walk in Hallerbos and watch this incredible scenery, you should wait for spring, when the bluebells flower for only a few weeks...

Museum aan de stroom - Antwerp

This huge (60m!) modernly shaped building was designed by Neutelings Riedijk Architects along the river Scheldt. It is the largest museum in Antwerp and hosts a series of exhibitions. On the rooftop, you can look over the whole city like a giant!

Villers Abbey - Walloon Brabant

In the quiet city of Villers, you can find the ruins of an ancient Cistercian abbey, founded in 1146 and abandoned in 1796. Its colossal foundations are now covered with climbing plants, which gives it a green, legendary aspect.

Liège-Guillemins station - Liège

Nine years of intense work were necessary to build this monumental station, which amazes all rail users making a stopover in Liège since its inauguration in 2009. Created by famous contemporary architect Santiago Calatrava, this 160m-long steel and glass arch perfectly captures the light and looks like it was made by someone from outer space.

Castle of Freÿr - Namur province

Belgium is the country with the most castle per km². One example is the one in Freÿr, built on the left bank of the river Meuse. Surrounded by woods, it is a major heritage site of the country, luxurious on the inside and full of ponds, fountains and mazes in its big garden.

Ypres trenches - West Flanders

The Ypres Salient zone is famous in Belgium for being a historical site where important battles occurred in 1914-15 during the First World War. At the time, soldiers used long cavities in the ground called trenches to hide when the enemy was close to their troops. Nowadays the trenches still exist and can be visited in Ypres itself, but also not far from it, in a wood called Bayernwald in German, because it used to host Bavarian soldiers.

Dinant - Namur province

Built in front of the Meuse river, the city of Dinant is famous for its legendary rock, on which a citadel was built in the 11th century. Surrounded by a natural area, the place also has a nice gothic church and is full of history.

Grotto of Saint Anthony of Padua - Crupet, Namur province

Situated in the peaceful village of Crupet is a quirky religious construction called the grotto of Saint Anthony of Padua.The artificial cave was inaugurated in 1903 and hosts 22 coloured statues, created to tell the story of the saint, with tales of devil and angel fights.


If you have any other suggestion, feel free to post a comment to this article!