Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Original and funny: Carnival experience in Belgium

In February and March, dozens of coloured and creative Carnival parades flourish over the whole of Belgium. A lot of them ended a few days ago (on Mardi Gras) and, as usual, have attracted many visitors. Why? Because each of them has its own traditions and stories, and they can provide you with a nice experience of what Belgium is in terms of fun and sincerity. Lots of them were invented centuries ago to celebrate the end of winter, ward off evil spirits and wish everyone good luck for the new harvest. Globally, Carnival is the occasion to exchange roles in society, wear disguises and do pranks to others... a great way to release pressure!


Probably the most famous Carnival in Belgium takes place in Binche (Hainaut province). It is easily recognizable from its main characters, the "Gilles", a tradition recognized by UNESCO for 10 years. Wearing fake fat bellies and ostrich feather hats, they have this very "Belgian" look from their mask, which used to be a symbol of rebellion against the Napoleonian regime. Participants are usually very proud of representing their city. The Gilles also play in brass bands and throw blood oranges to people down the street. The parade also includes a variety of other characters, usually played by local kids (Arlequin, Peasant, Pierrot...).


Gilles wearing masks or ostrich hats

Carnival in Aalst (East Flanders) is a tradition (also recognized by UNESCO) that started in the Middle Ages. Typically it involves "onion throwing" to passers-by and a "Dirty Sissies" parade... Actually, onion-sized candies have replaced onions, to the joy of children!... And the "Dirty Sissies" are not the new trendy punk band in Belgium, but a traditional parade. Because poor people couldn't afford fancy clothes, they decided to make fun of rich ladies by making men wear some ugly, broken or old clothes and accessories (fur coat, broken umbrella, etc.) often borrowed from their own wives!


Parade in Aalst and men in lady's clothes


A very "Walloon" Carnival is the Cwarmê in Malmedy (Liège province, bordering Germany). It is in this Carnival that Walloon language can be heard spoken ritually at ceremonies or by local characters, including "li Haguète", a sort of witch that plays tricks to people, represents winter and is judged at the end of Carnival. Also a variety of characters play jokes in Walloon with passers-by, like the "baker", who uses his/her giant spatula to hit people's butts!


Disguised crowd at the Carnival parade in Malmedy

A last example is the Carnival in Martelange (Luxembourg province), called "Cavalcade". This year, it was the only cross-border Carnival made in Belgium, because it partnered with the Luxembourg village of Rambrouch. Belgian people in the area feel very close to Luxembourg, also because one street is included in both countries.


Traditionally, most of these parades have a "Prince Carnival" who announces the end of Carnival, which also means the start of Spring. To symbolise the (temporary) death of winter, a giant puppet (stuffed with straw) is burned on a public square and the big fire warms up all attendees. Other examples of Carnival in Belgium are: the Laetare in Stavelot (Liège province), "Schnarnaval" in Schaerbeek (Brussels region) and Rosenmontag in Eupen (German-speaking community)... Each time a different experience!

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