Turbulent start of winter

The start of winter was not that cold in Belgium. Actually the year 2015 saw the hottest 17 December ever recorded in Belgium with 16°C! A series of events also made Belgium a "hotspot" that got the media's attention, and it just went on and on until Christmas...

The Phantom Menace

After Paris attacks, the alert level was raised to 4 in Brussels because the Government found a potential threat. The decision was, according to a Belgian media (DH), triggered by a text message saying that a group of people was planning something in the capital very soon.

As a result of this fourth level of alert, the metro was completely blocked and schools remained closed for a few days. People were asked to avoid crowded places like shopping centres or train stations, and it was forbidden to launch any demonstration (too bad for the start of COP21 on climate change!).

#soldiers in #brussels pic.twitter.com/XGxofBdM1j

— Alain Van Kerckhoven (@bowmore64) November 26, 2015

Usually popular streets in the centre remained empty and silent, which is strange for the pre-Christmas period. A few tanks towered these streets and a lot of soldiers were charged of protecting them, making the city look like a war zone... As an anecdote, one soldier got photographied on Facebook carrying a shopping bag around a commercial area of Brussels!

Belgium got a bad reputation in France and around the world. The country was accused of not giving the appropriate check on potential fanatic killers, who later on went to France with the results that we know. A particularly bad picture was given of the commune of Molenbeek, with its important Maghrebi community. Homes of a lot of people got searched and some were arrested in the whole country.

Belgium goes meow!

The police officially asked people in Belgium not to give away any information about these raids to undermine criminal networks. The advice was followed by many, who instead of publishing serious and specific details about the raids conducted by the police, flooded social media with so-called "Lolcats" (i.e. funny pictures of cats with captions) using the #BrusselsLockDown hashtag. The national police later expressed its gratitude to the population by publishing a tweet with a (virtual) bowl of cat food! Further evidence that humour is an integral part of Belgian culture.

Forget terrorism. Go surrealism #BrusselsLockdown Video https://t.co/0NEp0NxxQz pic.twitter.com/i9FERa0HWH

— beebah (@beebah) November 26, 2015

At the same time, a French newspaper (Canard Enchainé) published a stolen photography of the Royal Couple on holiday. King Philippe and Queen Mathilde were relaxing in a spa in Brittany, France on 21st and 22nd December. The king was photographed in a bathrobe reading and drinking cocktail. The Belgian public opinion thought that it was a bit unfair for someone representing the country, but the Royal Family insured that it was a private trip that they had been planning for a long time and King Philippe was always in contact with Belgian authorities.

On 26th November, the alert level was lowered to 3 (and it is still going on), like the rest of Belgium. The metro re-opened and the threat was considered as less imminent, probably because the main fugitive had left the country, hidden in a cupboard...

It was also the start of Christmas markets in many Belgian cities. In Brussels, a light and music show lights up the the newly renovated Grand'Place. This time, a huge Christmas tree was transported from the Walloon Ardennes. In addition, a human-size crib (with real sheep!) was set up next to it. Last year a group of militants made a demonstration inside it, so this year the authorities put fences to protect it.

There are still a few days for you to visit Belgian Christmas markets. The Brussels one ends on 3rd January, like many others (Antwerp, Oostende, Mons, Durbuy...), and it finishes on 30th December in Liège and 31st December in Namur.

Merry Christmas everyone and thanks for your faithfulness in this blog!

I visited Ghent on a rainy day and I (still) liked it!

You should never draw expectation on Belgian weather... The other day, as I was walking to the train station, I realised it going to rain heavily for days. But I really wanted to visit Ghent, so here's what I saw.

Lost? Here's how to get there

From the Gent-Sint-Pieters station, take the 1-tram to Korenmarkt (the ticket machine isn't clear at all, so ask a passerby to help you!) and in about 13 minutes, you'll be in the historical centre of Ghent. If you really don't like walking in such a weather (or if your umbrella broke), you can stop earlier on the way, at the Ghent city STAM museum (Bijloke site) to see the latest big exhibition dedicated to cultural heritage.

In any case, take your train as early as possible, because a lot of cultural attractions close in the afternoon (around 5 or 6 pm)! If it says '6 pm' on the flyer, expect it to close at 5.30 already!

'Cuberdon' candy being sold on the street around Korenmarkt

Ghent is the kind of city you could equally see yourself visit, go shopping to or live in. The authenticity and cuteness of the buildings will make you (almost) forget that you're getting wet and freezing like an icecube!

Overwhelmed? Here's what you should see first

 

A highlight of your visit will be the magnificent Ghent-Terneuzen Canal, which looks very similar to the stream of little sister city Bruges. You can take a boat to visit from the stream as well and it's just a little less fairy-tale and tourist-oriented but still enjoyable.

The other must-sees are the Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) (1) built in 1180 by Phillip of Alsace, the Belfry (2), a UNESCO World Heritage, the St. Nicholas' (gothic) Church (3) from the early 13th century, and the City Hall (4), a 2010s project.

  

Ghent isn't bad at all during the day, but it will literally light up and shine (like a phoenix) in the evening! In the winter the sun goes down around 5 already but you can still go shopping and enjoy such a romantic sight. Although you are still soaking, I promise the rain will become almost invisible!

Feeling 'hip'? Have some fun

The city has a quite big shopping area around Veldstraat that includes the usual brands. You can also find a whole bunch of vintage shops or markets around the town. People in Ghent tend to like giving a new life to old stuff from their attic... Usually these shops are indoors, which is cool. Don't expect finding very cheap items though: this is still Belgium!

Ghent is also about preserving and revitalising old monuments and old walls. This can be achieved through urban art. In the centre, you will also find the quite discreet but famous Design Museum in front of the canal. Maybe you'll find interesting ideas for your home!

Perfectly integrated mural fresco

If you're bored at night, you can hang around the nice bars of the town. There is a bit of everything, so you can easily find the one that you'll like and enjoy a nice Belgian beer.

You can also find concert halls or bars in which bands play every evening. Actually some of the most popular Belgian bands, like Soulwax, Balthazar or Das Pop, come from Ghent! If you prefer jazz, the city hosts many concerts and has a jazz festival in July (more info: Gent Jazz).

Belgian beers and trolls in a bar of the centre

A last remark on accents...

Last thing, if you're learning Dutch, don't pull a face if you don't understand everything they say. A lot of people will be from West Flanders and have the strangest accent you'll find in Belgium (some people consider it as a separate language), for example they call the city "Hent". Most others will use a proper Ghent accent, which has some peculiarities partly due to a long lasting French influence on the city. So listen carefully and don't hesitate to tell them you're not a local. Most often they'll switch to English or French.

Walloon ancestry in Wisconsin (USA)

When looking at a map of Northeastern Wisconsin, a few village names could sound familiar to most Belgians, like Brussels, Namur, Champion, Pepin, Rosiere... In the counties of Kewaunee, Door and Brown (Green Bay), there are still a few who carry the language and traditions of their Walloon ancestors. As promised earlier, let's talk about the Walloon community in the United States.

In 1852, many Walloons started emigrating on boats from Belgium because they weren't happy about the monarchy and were hoping for a better life. Yet, the timing was bad because the American civil war started a few years later and Walloons, who often couldn't even speak English, were enrolled as soldiers in the war. Other unfortunate events, such as famine or poor climate conditions, punctuated the life of Walloons in the region. Nevertheless, these people were able to maintain cultural bond with Belgium for generations to come.

Preserving a dying culture...

Today, some elderly people still speak Walloon casually, although it is almost extinct in the region, due to centuries of forced assimilation to the English language and a general lack of interest from younger generations. As most settlers came from Hesbaye and Brabant (Gembloux, Wavre, Jodoigne, etc.), the dialect spoken is Central Walloon. After 150 years, some "walloonised" English loanwords were integrated, such as "cåler" for "to call" ("å" is pronounced "aw"), but the language has remained very pure and understandable for Walloon speakers, conserving some features such as the rolled R (unlike most Belgian Walloon pronunciations nowadays).

Every year in July, Belgian Days are celebrated in Brussels, Wisconsin (Door County). The village has the largest Belgian settlement in the United States and the Walloon heritage is probably the strongest in the county. The festival is the occasion for these people to promote traditional dishes, such as Belgian trippes, pies, broth and others. Walloon settlers are known to have brought along their Catholic Church, a sense of family and fellowship, and solid agricultural knowledge. Nonetheless, the climate and landscape were very different to those in Belgium, so that inhabitants had to cope with cold temperature and build themselves log cabins, inspired by those of local natives.

It is not unusual that people there still keep contact with their Belgian cousins and come to visit the place their ancestors came from. Some of them fight in Belgium as soldiers sent from the US during World War II (imagine the locals' surprise when they heard an American GI speak Walloon!). On July 2nd 1975, members of Belgian and American Walloon communities gathered in Green Bay to celebrate "Belgians' Day" with speeches in English, French and Walloon. In addition, a book called Les Wallons du Wisconsin recently raised the interests of Belgians and Wisconsinians. It was written by two Belgian authors (F. Lempereur and X. Istasse) who travelled to Wisconsin several years ago, documenting Walloon settlements in the region and recording their testimonies.

A city of lights: Coteaux and Pierreuses in Liège

Yesterday evening was the 22nd edition of Nocturne des Coteaux de la Citadelle, an annual event in Liège that started in 1994. Candles were set on different places and various events were organised to highlight a part of the city usually discrete but nonetheless amazing spots!

Most people in Liège know the city centre with Place Saint-Lambert, its station and its shops (H&M, Fnac, Inno and others). Closeby remains a more silent and old historical district, where a number of monuments and green spaces can be visited without feeling oppressed as a tourist. There are also traditional bakeries where you can find exquisite pastries and local waffles for cheap prices.

Church of Saint-Barthélemy © Phlegmish & Wallony

Gentle giant in the area, a hill overlooks the city and hosts a nice, authentic quarter, (les) Pierreuses. The place is hidden behind the city centre and is harder to access because it is on a slope. Old romantic half-timbered houses welcome the few curious passerbys. Pierreuses have their culture and their people, usually known to be more open-minded, artistic and have their sense of humour and community.

Collection of views from Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

In the middle of Pierreuses, a door gives a free of access to a local farm with kitchen gardens and cattle. It offers people with less opportunities a chance to be included in society by working there. In there, you haven't even left the big crowded city of Liège but you really ARE in the countryside!

Farm in Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

If you get to the top of the hill following the way from Pierreuses, you will arrive at (les) Coteaux (de la Citadelle), a high point offering the best of the views on the whole city. You can use that place for endless talks with loved ones under starry skies (if you have a lot of things to tell them!). When you're done, you can go back to the centre by using the so-called "mountain" of Bueren, probably one of the longest staircases in the world...

Candles on Bueren staircase © Phlegmish & Wallony

Each year, on 3rd October, this part of the "ardent city", nickname of Liège, gets lit up with over 22,000 candles. Events such as free concerts and theatrical performances are organised, drinks and food are available and the whole place looks a little more romantic. It's the time of the year where the city reveals and animates its hidden parts and some places usually closed to public provide free access to their courtyards and gardens, also full of candles. The whole events takes an end with fireworks at 11.30pm in Parc Saint-Léonard.

Liège during the event © Phlegmish & Wallony

Don't be afraid to visit the historical district of Liège at any time of the year! You can also join two upcoming events in the area: on 9th May, the Coteaux area celebrates Spring with various events including concerts, food/wine tasting and games, and on the last Sunday of June is a guided tour through hidden gardens and other places.

And if you're still going to Liège right now, have some money to spend and are not afraid of rollercoasters and cholesterol(!), you can also go to the October Funfair set for a whole month on Bouvelard d'Avroy... and ask for laquements and croustillons!

Too many cars in Brussels? Solutions are being found

Brussels has probably one of the densest traffic in Europe, due to its central position in the country (not only geographically) and the number of European/international organisations having their headquarters there. However, actions are taken to promote a more bike- and pedestrian-friendly lifestyle.

New Brussels Capital's logo: yellow love heart on a blue plant

Decent public transports
As it is pretty difficult to find a park place, many inhabitants and workers leave their car at home and favour the city's efficient public transport service.

Wherever you are, you can use GoogleMaps to calculate your journey using buses, trams and the metro. Note however that the website/app is not as efficient in other parts of the country, especially the Walloon region (rather check that website).

On the official app of STIB/MIVB, the regional public transports in Brussels, you can get to know (almost) exactly at which station each bus/tram/metro is, avoiding awkward situations where you find yourself waiting ages for nothing.

Bicycling in the capital
As explained in a former article, bicycles are widely used in the Northern part of the country and it is part of the more healthy and eco-friendly lifestyle.

In Wallonia, bike lanes are being built but there is still a long (bike) way to cross before it gets into the local culture, as riding my bike to work, It is often perceived as an activity for people who are "really" into sports and bikes, or for liberals/alter/hipsters...

In Brussels, the trend to use a bike to work is starting to grow, because it is such a small territory and the public transports are not that cheap. In addition, the city recently introduced a new public transport service called Villo! (a mixture of the French words for "city" and "bike"), taking the example of Vélib in France.

For little expenses, you can automatically rent a bike from a bike station for a certain amount of time. Once you've arrived to your destination, you have to find the closest station to park it. It can be found using this map. Any bike found abandoned somewhere are being checked and the person renting it is contacted by phone.

No car allowed for a day
Yesterday was the annual car-free day in Brussels. A deliciously strange feeling of freedom took over the city and almost no car could be seen in the streets, even the biggest boulevards. The only exceptions were taxis, buses and people who had a special authorisation. As a result, Brussels was full of bikes and looked like a giant playground.

Opening the boulevard
In a less temporary way, the city of Brussels recently opened an entire area in the centre to pedestrians. What used to be a large boulevard with dense traffic became a place of leisure as seats, ping-pong tables and other items are now at the disposal of everyone.

Free hugs, anyone?

Belgian YouTube channel Would You React decided to test Belgium by carrying out what they called a "social experiment". The question asked was whether the three Belgian regions (Wallonia, Flanders and Brussels) were different as for showing their affection in public.

They took a hidden camera and a "Free Hugs" sign and counted the number of hugs (or refusals) they received in Liège, Antwerp and Brussels. Here is what happened:

Conclusion: although Brussels and Antwerp have slightly higher scores than Liège, all three got the same kind of percentage of hugs... around 57% of passers-by are ready to give you hugs, so why not try?

Original and funny: Carnival experience in Belgium

In February and March, dozens of coloured and creative Carnival parades flourish over the whole of Belgium. A lot of them ended a few days ago (on Mardi Gras) and, as usual, have attracted many visitors. Why? Because each of them has its own traditions and stories, and they can provide you with a nice experience of what Belgium is in terms of fun and sincerity. Lots of them were invented centuries ago to celebrate the end of winter, ward off evil spirits and wish everyone good luck for the new harvest. Globally, Carnival is the occasion to exchange roles in society, wear disguises and do pranks to others... a great way to release pressure!


Probably the most famous Carnival in Belgium takes place in Binche (Hainaut province). It is easily recognizable from its main characters, the "Gilles", a tradition recognized by UNESCO for 10 years. Wearing fake fat bellies and ostrich feather hats, they have this very "Belgian" look from their mask, which used to be a symbol of rebellion against the Napoleonian regime. Participants are usually very proud of representing their city. The Gilles also play in brass bands and throw blood oranges to people down the street. The parade also includes a variety of other characters, usually played by local kids (Arlequin, Peasant, Pierrot...).

Gilles wearing masks or ostrich hats

Carnival in Aalst (East Flanders) is a tradition (also recognized by UNESCO) that started in the Middle Ages. Typically it involves "onion throwing" to passers-by and a "Dirty Sissies" parade... Actually, onion-sized candies have replaced onions, to the joy of children!... And the "Dirty Sissies" are not the new trendy punk band in Belgium, but a traditional parade. Because poor people couldn't afford fancy clothes, they decided to make fun of rich ladies by making men wear some ugly, broken or old clothes and accessories (fur coat, broken umbrella, etc.) often borrowed from their own wives!

Parade in Aalst and men in lady's clothes

A very "Walloon" Carnival is the Cwarmê in Malmedy (Liège province, bordering Germany). It is in this Carnival that Walloon language can be heard spoken ritually at ceremonies or by local characters, including "li Haguète", a sort of witch that plays tricks to people, represents winter and is judged at the end of Carnival. Also a variety of characters play jokes in Walloon with passers-by, like the "baker", who uses his/her giant spatula to hit people's butts!

Disguised crowd at the Carnival parade in Malmedy

A last example is the Carnival in Martelange (Luxembourg province), called "Cavalcade". This year, it was the only cross-border Carnival made in Belgium, because it partnered with the Luxembourg village of Rambrouch. Belgian people in the area feel very close to Luxembourg, also because one street is included in both countries.


Traditionally, most of these parades have a "Prince Carnival" who announces the end of Carnival, which also means the start of Spring. To symbolise the (temporary) death of winter, a giant puppet (stuffed with straw) is burned on a public square and the big fire warms up all attendees. Other examples of Carnival in Belgium are: the Laetare in Stavelot (Liège province), "Schnarnaval" in Schaerbeek (Brussels region) and Rosenmontag in Eupen (German-speaking community)... Each time a different experience!

Why place names are so confusing in Belgium

Have you ever experienced the feeling of being lost in translation with signs on the highway written in different languages? If you visit Belgium by car, it might happen a lot, because depending on where you are driving in the country, the signs can be in Dutch and French (sometimes in German as well). The problem is that cities names are also translated and can REALLY confuse foreigners! A little guide to help you cope with it...

If you happen to visit the Brussels region, you will notice that every commune and street name is bilingual Dutch-French. Due to the Flemish origin of most of the place names, a peculiar phenomenon occurs with French versions of these names. A lot of them are written with strange combinations of letters that are not part of French spelling and you often have to ask locals how to pronounce them. For example, the commune name "Schaerbeek" is pronounced in French as if it was written "Scarbéque". And... this spelling is not even the same in Dutch, "Schaarbeek"! Why then?
 
The reason of this is the fact that an Flemish dialects used to be spelled in a different way in the old times, sometimes with rules that were not really fixed, so that one sound could be written in different ways. In Modern Dutch language, these place names were progressively changed to correspond to the spelling standards, but French speakers didn't really care about the new spelling and they kept it with the older one. Yet, you will still find the same spelling in Flemish family names, but it matters less...

If you know how to pronounce Dutch, you can quickly learn the following changes occurring in the spelling and you'll know how to pronounce the names of the city in French... oh wait, take a French accent of course(!):
- ae = aa /a:/ (a long "ah")
- au = ou /ɑu/ (normally English "ow" but French speakers say "oh")
- uy = ui /œi/ (more or less "uh-ee")
- ue = uu /y:/ (long French "u")
- ey = ei /ɛi/ (English "ay")
- y or ÿ = ij /ɛi/ (normally also English "ay" but French speakers say "ee")
- gh = g /x/ (normally like the Scottish pronunciation of ch in "loch" but French speakers say "g")
- sch = sch /sx/ (in French, just say "sk") or s /s/ (in word final)
 - c, ck = k or kk /k/


So, now you can read French versions of city names in Brussels, but also in the whole of Belgium:
Coxyde (Koksijde), Welkenraedt (Welkenraad), Crainhem (Kraainem), Knocke (Knokke), Blanckenberghe (Blankenberge), Auderghem (Oudergem), Schaerbeek (Schaarbeek)...

Unfortunately, it is not always that easy to understand that a city name means another one, especially if you compare what you see on your map or GPS and what you read on the signs! For some reason, you can find city names that are super different from their translation in French or Dutch. In some places, Flemish independentists have sprayed paint on street signs to hide the French names and only have Dutch names displayed...

Here is a selection of the biggest dissimilarities between French and Dutch names of the same city: Mons - Bergen*, Braine-l'Alleud - Eigenbrakel, Braine-le-Comte - s'-Gravenbrakel, Soignies - Zinnik, Tournai - Doornik, Ixelles - Elsene, Amblève - Amel, Tirlemont - Tienen, Fourons - Voeren, Anvers - Antwerpen, Termonde - Dendermonde, Courtrai - Kortrijk, Namur - Namen, Bouillon - Boolen... Feeling dizzy, huh?

* The meaning of the city name in both languages is in fact "mountains"

As you probably know it, Belgium also has a German-speaking community, so that there are also cities with names in German. Fortunately, the German name is usually super similar to the Dutch one (add umlauts here and there and you get them). That way, some Belgian cities have distinct translations in the three national languages: Bruxelles - Brüssel - Brussel, Liège - Lüttich - Luik, Arlon - Arel - Aarlen, Louvain - Löwen - Leuven, Malines - Mecheln - Mecheln...

Interesting article? Leave a comment!

Flemish Epiphany is a sort of Halloween

In Belgium, Epiphany (called "driekoningen" or "fête des rois") is celebrated on 6th January or at least at the beginning of this month, like a logical conclusion to Christmas time, when three "kings" arrive to the crib where Jesus was born, coming from the East and following a star in the sky. The word "kings" is probably not appropriate to qualify those three men, but they were rather scientists or wise men, who had knowledge of astronomy and said they could predict the future. Their name was Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar and they brought expensive gifts for Jesus, whom they considered to be their new king: gold, incense and myrrh (a sort of ointment).

In the whole country, people on that day eat a pie called "koningentaart" or "galette des rois", which is usually made of almonds and has a figurine or a black bean inside of it. The tradition is that the one who gets the figurine or black bean in their piece of pie becomes the king (or queen) for the day. It is mostly feast for children, so parents usually try to make their child get it, so that they're happy for the day. As a reward, one can get a paper crown and can elect a queen or a king, giving them the other paper crown.

Until this week I didn't know that Flanders actually had a distinctive tradition for children on the day of Epiphany, which it shares with other Germanic-language regions but not with Wallonia. Children are dressed as "kings", often carrying a lantern or a star, and, in groups of three (like the three kings), they go from house to house, a bit like for Halloween, and ask for candy or "cents". But instead of simply saying "trick or treat", they have to sing songs specially invented for the occasion, like this one:

"Driekoningen, driekoningen
Geef mij een nieuwe hoed
Mijn oude is versleten
Mijn moeder mag het niet weten
Mijn vader heeft het geld
Op de rooster geteld."

"Three kings, three kings

Give me a new hat.

My old one has been worn out,

My mother can't now about it

My father has counted
The money on the grid."

Are fries uniting Belgians?

"Avoir la frite" is a French expression meaning "being happy" but literally "getting the fry"! It could be a nice way to sum up Belgian philosophy. Although the dish is known for making people fat, Belgians are in general proud to consider it a national dish and it is probably one of the binding forces of the country (seriously!)...

Last year, all linguistic communities agreed to request making Belgian fries a UNESCO World Heritage and a "Week of the Fries" was specially organised for the occasion. It would give such a simple meal more prestige, as genuine gourmets and chefs also love it in more sophisticated dishes. One theory states that fries were invented by a fisherman in Namur who, after an unfruitful fishing day, decided to fry pieces of potatoes instead of fish. A brilliant idea!

Are fries a binding force for the country? Probably and Belgium needs it... The new Government, more right-wing and represented by only a minority of Francophones and by more Flemish nationalists, has been criticised a lot these days. Almost every week, strikes have paralysed the whole country, resulting in controversies on the way trade unionists prevented people from going to work, which divided Belgium even more.

On December 22 during a talk to explain his new policies, Charles Michel (MR liberal), the current Prime Minister (succeeding socialist Elio di Rupo), received Belgian fries and mayonnaise all over his face and suit. Four women, left-wing protestors who had registered for the talk as students of the local university, organised this sort of burlesque bashing to tell the PM to resign and "get rid of austerity".

Although obviously unhappy about this event, Charles Michel decided to take it with humour and sent a (pretty artistic) signed picture of himself during the event to the Fries Museum in Brussels (because, yes, there is a Fries Museum!). Although it won't stop the political problems in Belgium, this is the typical example of how Belgians try to make people "get the fry" through self-mockery and... fries of course!

The identity problem of Saint Nicholas's assistant(s)

Tonight in Belgium, Saint Nicholas, patron saint of children, will deliver presents, speculoos, tangerines and candy to all kids at home when they sleep... To be honest, I've never believed in Santa bringing presents on Christmas Eve, but I did believe in Saint Nicholas (even though we also receive presents on Christmas Eve!), so it is an important day for most Belgian kids. The week before, Saint Nicholas usually visits primary schools or shopping centres, or parades in bigger cities accompanied by some assistants. The issue is that Flemish and Walloon don't agree on what the assistant(s) look like, and the Flemish tradition is claimed to be racist by some people.

Zwarte Piet

Traditionally, in Flanders and the Netherlands, Saint Nicholas (or Sinterklaas) arrives riding a beautiful horse and he is helped by Zwarte Piet (Black Peter), a black character with long curly hair, a puffy hat, big earrings and coloured Renaissance clothes. Usually, there is more than one Zwarte Piet. They are kind, playful and they work in Saint Nicholas's toy factory, a bit like Santa's elves. Children love them because they are funny, they dance, and they give them candy. Flanders and the Netherlands have a tradition of broadcasting the arrival of Saint Nicholas on a boat in the country from Spain. The issue is that the black characters are played by white people wearing wigs and a lot of blackface makeup, an impersonation that some people, including ones from the African community, found very offensive. Therefore, anti-Zwarte Piet protests were organised in both Flanders and the Netherlands, sometimes supported or criticised by politicians.

Arrival of Sinterklaas from Spain in Groningen, The Netherlands (2015) - by Berkh

Père Fouettard

In the French- and German-speaking communities, the scenario is a bit different... First of all, Saint Nicholas (Saint-Nicolas in French) doesn't ride a horse but a (more humble) donkey and kids usually leave a carrot on their livingroom/kitchen table to feed the donkey and find it half-eaten on the next day. More importantly, there are originally no black characters assisting Saint Nicholas in distributing gifts. Instead, there is this one guy called Père Fouettard ("Father Whipper") in French (Hanscrouf in Liège Walloon) who is a rather terrifying figure and only replaces Saint Nicholas in case kids misbehave. If so, he gives them lumps of coal or whip them instead of giving them the usual presents. Père Fouettard is often depicted as a grumpy white hermit with an ugly brownish dark robe, a big black or grey beard, messy hair and sticks or whips in his hand, or a bag full of them. His face is often dirty and black from the ash and dirt he gets inside the chimney... but he is certainly not a black man to us.

Southern Belgian Saint Nicholas with a donkey and Père Fouettard

Belgian compromise

In Brussels, a capital city with people from all over the world, local authorities had to make a choice, facing the problem of this double tradition of Père Fouettard and Zwarte Piet, and the negative opinions on the latter. Therefore, a decision was made for this year that, in order to stay politically correct, there was need for a change in the habits. This time, instead of white people playing black characters wearing makeup on their face, people of Brussels made... kind of a mix! During the visit of Saint Nicholas in Brussels Haven, you could see youngsters (white, black or other) wearing an outfit similar to that of Zwarte Piet, but their faces were only slightly covered with a bit of black makeup, making it look like ash and dust from chimneys, a bit like Père Fouettard. This still looks quite acceptable, doesn't it?

Saint Nicholas in Brussels with his assistants - whatever name you give them (Photonews)

Special Movember: 8 Belgians who adopted the stach

For some reason, people tend to always picture Belgians (and also Frenchmen) with a moustache. It is definitely not a typically Belgian feature and, although some hipsters tend to get one "ironically" nowadays, it is not very popular here... Yet this months, you will probably see a bit more people with it because of "Movember", a charity event in which men grow moustaches in November to remind others of cancers and other health issues. As a support for this event, I have made a list of famous people or characters from Belgium who usually wear a stach, a good way to know more about our culture.

1) Hercule Poirot: Like a sir



Fictional private detective and Agatha Christie's main character, probably inspired of Belgian immigrants in the UK, he always solves intricate criminal affairs with a Belgian phlegm(!)

2) Anthony Van Dyck: The creator



Famous 17th-century Flemish Baroque painter, he also invented an eponymous type of beard-stach, which you can see on all of his self-portraits.

3) Bert Kruismans: The caustic bilingual

 

Flemish stand-up comedian, also popular on tv-channels of the whole country, he has performed in both national languages and loves to describe the splendid weirdnesses of Belgium

4) Grand/Lange Jojo: The singing grandpa



Funny old-fashioned singer from Brussels, he is often considered as a symbol of Belgian identity and he is famous for popular tracks like the drinking song "On a soif" (We are thirsty).

5) Balthasar Boma: Mr Tournée Générale



Fictive character from popular Flemish sitcom F.C. De Kampioenen, telling the story of a local football club, he is that old fashioned company owner who has the worst pick-up lines and keeps mixing French and Dutch all the time: one of his catch phrases is "Tournée générale!", meaning "It's my round!".

6) Thomson & Thompson: The slapstick policemen



The clumsy police twins are part of the comic book Tintin, and until the 80s, the stach was a popular trend among policemen in Belgium (didn't it even use to be part of the uniform?), which is not the case anymore, unfortunately for those who have this as a fantasy!

7) Olivier Deleuze: The green stach



Co-president of ECOLO, a francophone green party, and also the first mayor from this party in the Brussels region, he is from the multicultural commune of St-Josse-ten-Noode.

8) Bent van Looy: The indie boy



Lead singer of Das Pop and drummer of Soulwax, the thirty-something has also designed his own clothing and is now jury in the Flemish version of The Voice.

Any other idea? Send it in a comment!

Item of the Week: Tchantchès marionette

The (double) item of this week consists of two famous puppets from Liège: Tchantchès and Nanesse... They are a must-see if you want to understand the culture of the city. The two characters are usually encountered as marionettes or giant puppets carried by people at folk parades. People in Liège love them and probably every kid in Liège has already enjoyed a marionette play in the Outremeuse district. Tchantchès symbolises the typical Liège chap, but nobody is really sure of what his name means. Some say Tchantchès is a diminutive of Françwès, i.e. "Francis" in Walloon dialect, but others prefer to see it as an ancient diminutive Djan (John) via Dutch "Jantje" (little John).

Tchantchès is a legendary character who is said to be born in Outremeuse, a district of Liège in the middle Ages. The name "Outremeuse" means that if you come from the centre of Liège and the district is "beyond the Meuse (river)". In his stories, he is a close friend of Charles the Great and always defends him against enemies in big battles. His favourite way of fighting is by head butting his opponent. He is the representation of the traditional personality of Liège people, because he is said to be impertinent, courageous and loyal to his friends. Finally, his big red nose gives away that he is a big lover of pèkèt, the local jenever drink.

Tchantchès, Nanesse and Charles the Great

 

Represented with a red scarf around the neck, a black cap, and a blue work coat, Tchantchès wears the typical working-class outfit from the end of the 19th century, and it is believed that it was the time when the puppet was invented in a local theatre. He also has a wife, Nanesse (Agnes in English), a basket carrier, who, although being full of integrity and a gentle character, is also strong and strict to her husband and likes hitting him with a frying pan when she gets angry. 

A parade in Liège with the giant puppets

 

Today, Tchantchès and Nanesse are famous for their puppets (or marionettes), which appear whether in theatres or as giants for a parade every year on 15th August in Outremeuse. The marionettes are particular in that they are made of around 8-10 pieces of wood, iron strings and cloth. The scenarios of the plays were usually written during the 19th century and re-enact medieval "chansons de geste". Only one rod is used to manipulate the puppet, which only allows limited and awkward body moves. This gives a funny touch to the plays, especially when characters are fighting. The play is ideal for younger kids, because the puppets discuss and interact with the audience, make jokes and ask them for advices... All I can say is kids love it and I loved it as a kid.

Belgian weather in a nutshell: la drache!

Belgian weather seems to be as complicated as its politics! It is the end of summer and everyone keeps complaining about it, Belgians included. I personally never spend a season without getting a sore throat in Belgium. Like in other North European countries, the sky is mostly cloudy and people are mostly... wet! But don't worry, we're used to it! In this article, I'll explain you why Belgian weather can be frustrating, what a drache is and how the country is divided.
 

Wettest summer in 22 years!

It seems to me that it has never been as rainy as it is today in Belgium. Recently published weather facts prove it... The summer of 2014 was the wettest in Belgium since 1992, according to meteorologist David Dehenauw, who took records of precipitations at the national weather station in Uccle (Brussels region). In June, July and August, we got around 345 mm of water on our faces in total, especially July (117 mm) and August (135 mm), and we also had slightly less sunshine and warmth than usual. All in all, July and August are wet months, so it isn't so nice to spend holiday in your garden here... Therefore you'll find so many Belgians in Southern Europe (Spain, Italy, Croatia or Greece) in the summer, together with their Dutch and German neighbours.

Seasons in Belgium

As a university student, it was very hard for me to concentrate on my May-June exams, because the weather was probably the nicest one at that time of the year. Now in September, we also have a nicer weather than in August but kids have to go back to school! But still... don't expect a perfect dry sunny day this month! It is so unusual that Belgian people love to celebrate it with a BBQ or by drinking beers outside of cafés. Summery Belgian weather is random and weird... It just keeps changing, so that whenever you check the weather forecasts on TV or the web, it will always look like this:

Sunshine and rainclouds spend a lot of time together

On the same day, even within a few hours, you can get sun, rain (a light one that lasts forever or a quick downpour that ruins your clothes) or even hail, which is very frequent in summer. That's why I always carry an umbrella and a scarf in my bag just in case... And for no reason, the weather in the morning always seems to be the opposite as the weather when I go back from work.

Anyway, right after September, things start to cool down and it becomes darker and colder until the end of wintertime. Yet, another disappointment is that snow usually comes too late for Christmas and we usually get rain and muddy roads on that day. If you want to go sleighing or cross-country skiing (which I advise you to do in the Walloon Ardennes), you should wait until February or even March, when people are already over the whole Christmas spirit and wish for Spring, flowers and swallows. Actually, spring is usually pretty discreet and fast, because it just looks like any other seasons, in which you also get unexpected showers, in addition to hay fever. 

La drache nationale, a cultural event

Typical of Belgian climate, la drache (den drache in Flemish) is a heavy downpour that is unexpected and can ruin a wedding day or anything you wear. This typical Belgian word seems to come from German "dreschen", which means "to thresh or thrash", or from Dutch dras(sig), "marshy, soggy". This weather situation is well-known for happening every year on the national day, 21st July, which is called la drache nationale in Belgian French and den drache national in Flemish (read my article on the national anthem). In an extended, and more positive meaning, the word drache is used for a glass of beer offered in a bar to a whole group of people!

Three climates...

I'm probably not the best person to talk about the weather, but I've noticed that we had three climatic zones in Belgium: the North, the Centre and the South. they seem to correspond with the type of landscape you will find in these areas. Most often, the worst weather you will find will always be in the South, mostly in the Ardennes. It is the place you can actually get loads of snow in the winter. In summer, you can find a some days to wear a t-shirt and a swimsuit and try to take a dip in one of our cold lakes, but it is usually moist and chilly in those deep forests. The North is what Jacques Brel called "le plat pays" (the flat land/country), with hardly any hill and the long beaches of De Panne, Knokke or Oostende, the weather is usually the nicest, although quite windy (don't expect to keep your nice permanent in there!). Finally, the Centre is stuck in the middle of this, with a climate in Brussels I could qualify as "so-so", nothing much to say here.

The division is more or less like on this map