Turbulent start of winter

The start of winter was not that cold in Belgium. Actually the year 2015 saw the hottest 17 December ever recorded in Belgium with 16°C! A series of events also made Belgium a "hotspot" that got the media's attention, and it just went on and on until Christmas...

The Phantom Menace

After Paris attacks, the alert level was raised to 4 in Brussels because the Government found a potential threat. The decision was, according to a Belgian media (DH), triggered by a text message saying that a group of people was planning something in the capital very soon.

As a result of this fourth level of alert, the metro was completely blocked and schools remained closed for a few days. People were asked to avoid crowded places like shopping centres or train stations, and it was forbidden to launch any demonstration (too bad for the start of COP21 on climate change!).

#soldiers in #brussels pic.twitter.com/XGxofBdM1j

— Alain Van Kerckhoven (@bowmore64) November 26, 2015

Usually popular streets in the centre remained empty and silent, which is strange for the pre-Christmas period. A few tanks towered these streets and a lot of soldiers were charged of protecting them, making the city look like a war zone... As an anecdote, one soldier got photographied on Facebook carrying a shopping bag around a commercial area of Brussels!

Belgium got a bad reputation in France and around the world. The country was accused of not giving the appropriate check on potential fanatic killers, who later on went to France with the results that we know. A particularly bad picture was given of the commune of Molenbeek, with its important Maghrebi community. Homes of a lot of people got searched and some were arrested in the whole country.

Belgium goes meow!

The police officially asked people in Belgium not to give away any information about these raids to undermine criminal networks. The advice was followed by many, who instead of publishing serious and specific details about the raids conducted by the police, flooded social media with so-called "Lolcats" (i.e. funny pictures of cats with captions) using the #BrusselsLockDown hashtag. The national police later expressed its gratitude to the population by publishing a tweet with a (virtual) bowl of cat food! Further evidence that humour is an integral part of Belgian culture.

Forget terrorism. Go surrealism #BrusselsLockdown Video https://t.co/0NEp0NxxQz pic.twitter.com/i9FERa0HWH

— beebah (@beebah) November 26, 2015

At the same time, a French newspaper (Canard Enchainé) published a stolen photography of the Royal Couple on holiday. King Philippe and Queen Mathilde were relaxing in a spa in Brittany, France on 21st and 22nd December. The king was photographed in a bathrobe reading and drinking cocktail. The Belgian public opinion thought that it was a bit unfair for someone representing the country, but the Royal Family insured that it was a private trip that they had been planning for a long time and King Philippe was always in contact with Belgian authorities.

On 26th November, the alert level was lowered to 3 (and it is still going on), like the rest of Belgium. The metro re-opened and the threat was considered as less imminent, probably because the main fugitive had left the country, hidden in a cupboard...

It was also the start of Christmas markets in many Belgian cities. In Brussels, a light and music show lights up the the newly renovated Grand'Place. This time, a huge Christmas tree was transported from the Walloon Ardennes. In addition, a human-size crib (with real sheep!) was set up next to it. Last year a group of militants made a demonstration inside it, so this year the authorities put fences to protect it.

There are still a few days for you to visit Belgian Christmas markets. The Brussels one ends on 3rd January, like many others (Antwerp, Oostende, Mons, Durbuy...), and it finishes on 30th December in Liège and 31st December in Namur.

Merry Christmas everyone and thanks for your faithfulness in this blog!

I visited Ghent on a rainy day and I (still) liked it!

You should never draw expectation on Belgian weather... The other day, as I was walking to the train station, I realised it going to rain heavily for days. But I really wanted to visit Ghent, so here's what I saw.

Lost? Here's how to get there

From the Gent-Sint-Pieters station, take the 1-tram to Korenmarkt (the ticket machine isn't clear at all, so ask a passerby to help you!) and in about 13 minutes, you'll be in the historical centre of Ghent. If you really don't like walking in such a weather (or if your umbrella broke), you can stop earlier on the way, at the Ghent city STAM museum (Bijloke site) to see the latest big exhibition dedicated to cultural heritage.

In any case, take your train as early as possible, because a lot of cultural attractions close in the afternoon (around 5 or 6 pm)! If it says '6 pm' on the flyer, expect it to close at 5.30 already!

'Cuberdon' candy being sold on the street around Korenmarkt

Ghent is the kind of city you could equally see yourself visit, go shopping to or live in. The authenticity and cuteness of the buildings will make you (almost) forget that you're getting wet and freezing like an icecube!

Overwhelmed? Here's what you should see first

 

A highlight of your visit will be the magnificent Ghent-Terneuzen Canal, which looks very similar to the stream of little sister city Bruges. You can take a boat to visit from the stream as well and it's just a little less fairy-tale and tourist-oriented but still enjoyable.

The other must-sees are the Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) (1) built in 1180 by Phillip of Alsace, the Belfry (2), a UNESCO World Heritage, the St. Nicholas' (gothic) Church (3) from the early 13th century, and the City Hall (4), a 2010s project.

  

Ghent isn't bad at all during the day, but it will literally light up and shine (like a phoenix) in the evening! In the winter the sun goes down around 5 already but you can still go shopping and enjoy such a romantic sight. Although you are still soaking, I promise the rain will become almost invisible!

Feeling 'hip'? Have some fun

The city has a quite big shopping area around Veldstraat that includes the usual brands. You can also find a whole bunch of vintage shops or markets around the town. People in Ghent tend to like giving a new life to old stuff from their attic... Usually these shops are indoors, which is cool. Don't expect finding very cheap items though: this is still Belgium!

Ghent is also about preserving and revitalising old monuments and old walls. This can be achieved through urban art. In the centre, you will also find the quite discreet but famous Design Museum in front of the canal. Maybe you'll find interesting ideas for your home!

Perfectly integrated mural fresco

If you're bored at night, you can hang around the nice bars of the town. There is a bit of everything, so you can easily find the one that you'll like and enjoy a nice Belgian beer.

You can also find concert halls or bars in which bands play every evening. Actually some of the most popular Belgian bands, like Soulwax, Balthazar or Das Pop, come from Ghent! If you prefer jazz, the city hosts many concerts and has a jazz festival in July (more info: Gent Jazz).

Belgian beers and trolls in a bar of the centre

A last remark on accents...

Last thing, if you're learning Dutch, don't pull a face if you don't understand everything they say. A lot of people will be from West Flanders and have the strangest accent you'll find in Belgium (some people consider it as a separate language), for example they call the city "Hent". Most others will use a proper Ghent accent, which has some peculiarities partly due to a long lasting French influence on the city. So listen carefully and don't hesitate to tell them you're not a local. Most often they'll switch to English or French.

A week to discover Belgian fries!

Today was the start of the Week of Belgian Fries ("Semaine de la Frite") in Wallonia. For the fifth edition of this Walloon initiative, the goal is to highlight 150 places where you can actually eat "real" fries in the south of the country. You can find a list on their website, try them and tell us what you think!

They're worth a museum!

If you really want to know Belgian fries like the back of your hand, you can visit the only museum the world dedicated to them! The Frietmuseum is located in Bruges and can teach you a lot about Belgian fries and their history.

How can you make your own Belgian fries?

Here is an example of recipe that you could use...
1) Choose a more floury type of potato. Usually, Bintje or Nicolas potatoes are being used in Belgium.
2) If you really want to do it the traditional way, use unrefined beef fat ("Blanc de Boeuf"). But you can also use any other oil if you prefer it.
3) After washing the potatoes and peeling them, make sure you chop the potatoes in fries as thick as 1 cm (0,4 inches).
4) Don't rince them again, as it could reduce their taste considerably. Then, dry them a maximum with a towel.
5) You have to pre-cook your fries to make sure the inside of the potato is edible. The oil has to be as hot as 160°C (320°F) and it usually takes around 5 minutes. If you're not sure, you can try to break one of the fries with your fingers, if it's almost immediate, they're ready.
6) The next step is to allow them to cool down for a while (maybe half an hour).
At this step, if you feel like you have too much, you can keep them in a box in your freezer so you can cook them later!
7) Finally, cook your fries at around 170-180°C (340-355°F) to actually fry them, making them crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, and with an orange colour, around 2 or 3 minutes.
8) Put them in a bowl with a tissue and shake them up and down to make sure you get rid of a maximum of oil.

If you want to look authentic, place them in a papercone or a cardboard tray, with mayonnaise of course! Serve them hot!

Hypothetical reforms of the country

Mainstream media and Internet users like to imagine that Wallonia and Flanders will become independent from each other or join their respective neighbouring country (France or the Netherlands), but it cannot be that simple to separate two entities with such a shared centuries-long history like this. This article will focus on hypotetical reforms in Belgium on territory and powers.

Intricate combination of powers

Right now, the countries comprises the following entities:
- a Federal State
- Walloon, Flemish and Brussels Capital Regions
- Francophone (self-called "Wallonia-Brussels Federation", constitutionally "French Community"), Flemish and German-speaking Communities
- ten Provinces (Brussels being a Province-less Region although it exercises the same power as a Province)
- 43 administrative arrondissements
- many smaller Communes (municipalities)

Some explanation...

A language border was created in 1961-1963 to delimitate territories where the three national languages should be spoken. Then, the Province of Brabant got divided in a Brussels-Capital Region, a Walloon Brabant and a Flemish Brabant.

In addition, Communities were mainly created for bilingual territories like Brussels or the German-speakers who don't have a Region on their own but are included in the Walloon Region... Political parties which used to be multilingual got divided as well, so that sp.a (Flemish Socialist party) separated from PS (Francophone Socialist party) and SP (its German-speaking counterpart). At all elections (even the Federal ones), you can only vote for someone that speaks the language of your electoral district. So it isn't possible for a Walloon to vote for a Fleming and vice versa, but if you live in the Brussels-Capital Region, you can choose!

A divided power between Federal State, Communities and Regions results in the use of no less than seven Governments for such a small country! In theory, all have a Parliament, a Senate, a Government and an Administration. However, since 1980 the Flemish Community and Region have shared an Administration, a Parliament and a Senate. Communitary and regional matters are voted by Senate and Parliament from their respective point of views with a different President and approach.

Some people argue that this organisation is too complex (for more information, you can watch this YouTube video), with different powers attributed to each of these entities.


What ideas have been given yet?

Most of the following ideas of reforms come from minoritary or non-mainstream parties. Big parties seem to favour other issues than this one (economy, nature, immigration, etc.). This doesn't mean that they would necessarily like to preserve a status quo. Yet, the debate hasn't moved on much for the last decades as it implies a fundamental change in the Belgian Constitution.

A fourth Region?

The Minister-President of the Government of the German-speaking Community would like to create a four Region for his Community (with only nine Communes), which would be Province-less, a bit like Brussels-Capital. The idea is not recent and German-speakers, included in the Walloon Region, may feel as if they weren't really part of it and ProDG, an outspoken regionalist party, exists since 1971. Note that earlier Volksunie (the ancestor of N-VA, a Flemish nationalist party) proposed that these could be turned into a Province called Eupen-St-Vith but the idea didn't go further.

Official Regions following this reform.

Removing Communities and Provinces?

Two members of MR (Liberal party) and three members of PS (Socialist party) imagine getting rid of linguistic Communities or at least reducing their powers, by regionalising teaching and culture for a start. Accordingly, it could simplify Belgian institutions for citizens. Some of these politicians are heirs of the Walloon Movement that wants to promote a Walloon identity.

Following this reform, Brussels wouldn't be under both the Francophone and Flemish communities but simply a bilingual Region. It would also mean the creation of a German-speaking Region, making Belgium a four-Region country.

Moreover, some consider Provinces as outdated entities and they think administrative arrondissements should be favoured to reflect local identities better.

A bigger Brussels-Capital Region?

FDF (Francophone federalist party) argues that Belgian Francophones do share a common culture and identity. The party opposes the removal of Communities or any cut-off in their powers, saying that it could make education and job search more complicated on both sides, and further divide Francophones. The same types of argument have been put forward by other members of MR and PS, who do not necessarily agree with Walloon regionalism.

Along with UF (Union of Francophones' party in Flanders), FDF also want to encourage the privileges of Francophones living in Flanders to use their mother tongue, possibly by extending the Capital's bilingualism to these municipalities.

Back to Provinces only?

BUB (Belgian Union party) - one of the only bilingual parties left - wants to abolish Communities and Regions, and go back to a Federal State divided in Provinces, with no divide of the Brabant into three entities. This party is minoritary and those who want so-called "Daddy's Belgium" back are often seen as nostalgic fans of an outdated monarchy, which doesn't give them many votes at elections.

 What a Province-only Belgium with a unitary Brabant would look like.

Confederalism?

N-VA's (Flemish nationalist party) idea is to have a clearer separation between Wallonia and Flanders. They would like to initiate the process by making Belgium a Confederal State (instead of a Federal one), with Flanders and Wallonia owning all powers but voluntarily partnering on some issues. These years, N-VA has been very popular in Flanders and have more political weight, although it is not sure whether their electorate is precisely in favour of such a constitutional reform.

PP (Francophone liberal conservative party) also announced their intention to encourage a Confederal State, although it should comprise three or four independent Regions. The number of separate entities depends on the status of Brussels: as part of Flanders, as a separate entity or as co-managed by Wallonia and Flanders, and that of the German-speaking territories.

Only one Federal electoral district

Politicians from different parties, especially Groen! (Flemish green party), Ecolo (Francophone green party) and Open Vld (Flemish liberal party), have given the idea to reduce the number of electoral districts to one for Federal elections. This means allowing citizens to vote for anyone in the country, even if that person doesn't speak the same language. They believe it could be a good way to strengthen links between the different communities after the recent institutional reform for a regionalisation of powers. Other parties like PS have brought it up as well but no change has been operated yet...


So should we keep the same system, use one of the solutions above or find a new one? The debate is open...

Walloon ancestry in Wisconsin (USA)

When looking at a map of Northeastern Wisconsin, a few village names could sound familiar to most Belgians, like Brussels, Namur, Champion, Pepin, Rosiere... In the counties of Kewaunee, Door and Brown (Green Bay), there are still a few who carry the language and traditions of their Walloon ancestors. As promised earlier, let's talk about the Walloon community in the United States.

In 1852, many Walloons started emigrating on boats from Belgium because they weren't happy about the monarchy and were hoping for a better life. Yet, the timing was bad because the American civil war started a few years later and Walloons, who often couldn't even speak English, were enrolled as soldiers in the war. Other unfortunate events, such as famine or poor climate conditions, punctuated the life of Walloons in the region. Nevertheless, these people were able to maintain cultural bond with Belgium for generations to come.

Preserving a dying culture...

Today, some elderly people still speak Walloon casually, although it is almost extinct in the region, due to centuries of forced assimilation to the English language and a general lack of interest from younger generations. As most settlers came from Hesbaye and Brabant (Gembloux, Wavre, Jodoigne, etc.), the dialect spoken is Central Walloon. After 150 years, some "walloonised" English loanwords were integrated, such as "cåler" for "to call" ("å" is pronounced "aw"), but the language has remained very pure and understandable for Walloon speakers, conserving some features such as the rolled R (unlike most Belgian Walloon pronunciations nowadays).

Every year in July, Belgian Days are celebrated in Brussels, Wisconsin (Door County). The village has the largest Belgian settlement in the United States and the Walloon heritage is probably the strongest in the county. The festival is the occasion for these people to promote traditional dishes, such as Belgian trippes, pies, broth and others. Walloon settlers are known to have brought along their Catholic Church, a sense of family and fellowship, and solid agricultural knowledge. Nonetheless, the climate and landscape were very different to those in Belgium, so that inhabitants had to cope with cold temperature and build themselves log cabins, inspired by those of local natives.

It is not unusual that people there still keep contact with their Belgian cousins and come to visit the place their ancestors came from. Some of them fight in Belgium as soldiers sent from the US during World War II (imagine the locals' surprise when they heard an American GI speak Walloon!). On July 2nd 1975, members of Belgian and American Walloon communities gathered in Green Bay to celebrate "Belgians' Day" with speeches in English, French and Walloon. In addition, a book called Les Wallons du Wisconsin recently raised the interests of Belgians and Wisconsinians. It was written by two Belgian authors (F. Lempereur and X. Istasse) who travelled to Wisconsin several years ago, documenting Walloon settlements in the region and recording their testimonies.

A "Marginal" Triangle in Flemish Brabant?

Leuven is widely known to be the main city of the Flemish Brabant province. It has a century-old university campus - perhaps it is the Belgian "Oxford"? - and many wealthy youngsters come from all over Flanders and the world to study there. Yet, an Eastern part of the same province, between Tienen, Diest and Aarschot, is colloqually named "de Marginale Driehoek" or "the Marginal Triangle" in English. A legend says that Napoleon gave the name to the region. According to it, before the Battle of Waterloo, the emperor left a number of soldiers there when they were not "capable" of doing much.

"Marginal Triangle" on a map next to Leuven

Nowadays people still associate the "triangle" with the word "marginaal", which does not translate only literally into "marginal". Rather it is used for tasteless and stupid people, who often severly lack culture, education and a job... Stereotypes depicts them as football and car "pimping" fans, who love loud techno music and showing off clothes of a famous brand (basically the equivalent of "chavs" in England).

As a result, people in Leuven and others regularly make fun of the region, being considered as low class, which is often untrue! According to statistics (source), people in the region are not necessarily less well educated or employed, but some would argue that "marginality" has more to do with culture and lifestyle than income or education...

Flemish tv-show De Ideale Wereld (VIER) has recently made fun of these people through parody videos. In one of them, the comedian Luc Haekens pretended to be a journalist broadcasting the visit of the Chinese President in Tienen. A big limo arrived on the city centre and a black guy wearing a Chinese hat and a wig was playing the Chinese President! Although this all didn't really make sense, people still acted as if it was normal!... It didn't surprise anyone either that the "Chinese President" had a perfect Flemish accent while speaking Dutch! Watch the video.

In another parody, the same comedian publically apologised to all people in Tienen about what he did last time. He used the occasion to make people claim their pride in the city of Tienen... but not in the best way! Haekens basically pushed people to say silly sentences while innocently doing strange things. A woman put her feet in a public fountain, a cyclist got filmed upside down with his bottom facing the camera, etc. Not the best way to bring some dignity back to the so-called "Marginal Triangle"! Watch the video.

Special thanks to Rien for the good idea! ;-)

A city of lights: Coteaux and Pierreuses in Liège

Yesterday evening was the 22nd edition of Nocturne des Coteaux de la Citadelle, an annual event in Liège that started in 1994. Candles were set on different places and various events were organised to highlight a part of the city usually discrete but nonetheless amazing spots!

Most people in Liège know the city centre with Place Saint-Lambert, its station and its shops (H&M, Fnac, Inno and others). Closeby remains a more silent and old historical district, where a number of monuments and green spaces can be visited without feeling oppressed as a tourist. There are also traditional bakeries where you can find exquisite pastries and local waffles for cheap prices.

Church of Saint-Barthélemy © Phlegmish & Wallony

Gentle giant in the area, a hill overlooks the city and hosts a nice, authentic quarter, (les) Pierreuses. The place is hidden behind the city centre and is harder to access because it is on a slope. Old romantic half-timbered houses welcome the few curious passerbys. Pierreuses have their culture and their people, usually known to be more open-minded, artistic and have their sense of humour and community.

Collection of views from Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

In the middle of Pierreuses, a door gives a free of access to a local farm with kitchen gardens and cattle. It offers people with less opportunities a chance to be included in society by working there. In there, you haven't even left the big crowded city of Liège but you really ARE in the countryside!

Farm in Pierreuses © Phlegmish & Wallony

If you get to the top of the hill following the way from Pierreuses, you will arrive at (les) Coteaux (de la Citadelle), a high point offering the best of the views on the whole city. You can use that place for endless talks with loved ones under starry skies (if you have a lot of things to tell them!). When you're done, you can go back to the centre by using the so-called "mountain" of Bueren, probably one of the longest staircases in the world...

Candles on Bueren staircase © Phlegmish & Wallony

Each year, on 3rd October, this part of the "ardent city", nickname of Liège, gets lit up with over 22,000 candles. Events such as free concerts and theatrical performances are organised, drinks and food are available and the whole place looks a little more romantic. It's the time of the year where the city reveals and animates its hidden parts and some places usually closed to public provide free access to their courtyards and gardens, also full of candles. The whole events takes an end with fireworks at 11.30pm in Parc Saint-Léonard.

Liège during the event © Phlegmish & Wallony

Don't be afraid to visit the historical district of Liège at any time of the year! You can also join two upcoming events in the area: on 9th May, the Coteaux area celebrates Spring with various events including concerts, food/wine tasting and games, and on the last Sunday of June is a guided tour through hidden gardens and other places.

And if you're still going to Liège right now, have some money to spend and are not afraid of rollercoasters and cholesterol(!), you can also go to the October Funfair set for a whole month on Bouvelard d'Avroy... and ask for laquements and croustillons!